What to do?

[metalstudman1]

Since I bought the kids their first go kart/buggy 3 years ago I've slapped together a few piles of junk into "FUN" machines-made a go kart track and joined a buggy forum!!!
I might have a problem!!!
So-I go to finish the kids buggy (Punisher with shaft drive motor) and no spark turns out the stator is bad (possibly more stuff) on "the known running Honda Bigred 250" Craig's list engine!!! So now I gotta wait for another payday and rebuild time so I'm looking around for something to do and spot my engineless rusted out FL250 and see my $100. commercial outlaw gokart from Myrtle Beach, just tripped over my 440 sled engine in the shop- -I've got a new project
Let's see what kind of monstrosity I can make with this stuff!!!

[metalstudman1]

Goal here is to leave the body/appearance of the Outlaw kart.
Started the carnage Wednesday night by cutting all the excessive metal off the commercial kart-about a 100lbs worth leaving basically the frame rail. Then cut the front and rear off the FL250. measured it all up & attached them-Had to order a new bearing set for the gearbox & axle.Set the rack unit and modified the steering arms to fit the Ody's frontend.Had an automotive steering knuckle to fix the changed steering angle-worked perfectly. The commercial kart sat just 3" from the ground- now it sets 11" up with the off road tires.Had to butcher up the extremely high rollcage to lower center of gravity some and set it on the frame w/bolting plates.Now that I can roll it around I'll start on mounting the sled engine.

[metalstudman1]

I got to spend a minute on the creation-went ahead and made all the fastening brackets for the front fiberglass and roll bar. It fit pretty good,
didn't have to butcher it too bad.I'll deal with the pedals when I get the engine mounted and figure out where the radiator and fuel tank need to go.
Got it out between rain storms and got some pics-
turned it around to get the business end where I can work on it. This motor must weigh over a 100lbs so I used my poor man's hoist to let me see where it needs to go.

[Rarerat]

Great job!!

This is so funny that I log on and see your Odyssey build. Last weekend after a family ride I was teasing my daughter about her Yerf not having enough power to pull my fat @ss up any decent size sand hills and told her I was going to find a cheep FL250 and cut the back half of the frame off right behind the seat. Then weld a piece of metal across it and basically build a new rear section for her yerf out of the Ody. I figured I could use the engine , trans, axle, gas tank etc.. from the Ody and just make it bolt on in place of the GY6 swing arm assembly.

Now you really have me thinking about it. Keep us up to date on your progress.

[metalstudman1]

I'll do some measuring for you to see what you might have as a conflict. I whacked the backend off as a matter of convenience- the frame rails on both karts were just 2" off in width and I ran the frame rail inside the Ody's rails -almost exact fit.

[Rarerat]

Thank you.

[metalstudman1]

Rarerat- FL250 rear axle: hub to hub=37", frame rails or bolting points- outside to outside=23-1/2", with 22x11x8 tires overall width= 49". Since we haven't had a stock rearend on the Spiderbox in awhile I don't remember it's stock width, but since the FL250's rails are just a 1/2" narrower than the stock Spiderbox swingarm it must be close to the same.
IMO I think it's too narrow but that's up to the driver to keep it from rolling over especially since you're intent is more (alot more) power.If it makes a difference- my plans for our Spiderbox engine mod is another Honda 200sx motor: decent power,almost bullet-proof design,auto-clutch,5 speed tranny means your gonna climb that hill,reverse,elctric and pull start,good voltage for lights (40mpg+) The bad -chain drive on the left means you can flip the axle but you'll have to move the brakes to the other side, add a cable shifter. The parts for this motor are as cheap or cheaper than a GY6.

[metalstudman1]

Not alot of big visual progress but critical progress- It took me several hours to engineer the rear frame rail design for the back fiberglass to work. Then designing the engine plate for adjustment,exhaust clearance, belt replacement, engine service,ect..... This is what I settled on- we'll see if it meets all the requirements when I fit the body and fire up the engine.

[Rarerat]

Originally Posted by metalstudman1

Rarerat- FL250 rear axle: hub to hub=37", frame rails or bolting points- outside to outside=23-1/2", with 22x11x8 tires overall width= 49". Since we haven't had a stock rearend on the Spiderbox in awhile I don't remember it's stock width, but since the FL250's rails are just a 1/2" narrower than the stock Spiderbox swingarm it must be close to the same.
IMO I think it's too narrow but that's up to the driver to keep it from rolling over especially since you're intent is more (alot more) power.If it makes a difference- my plans for our Spiderbox engine mod is another Honda 200sx motor: decent power,almost bullet-proof design,auto-clutch,5 speed tranny means your gonna climb that hill,reverse,elctric and pull start,good voltage for lights (40mpg+) The bad -chain drive on the left means you can flip the axle but you'll have to move the brakes to the other side, add a cable shifter. The parts for this motor are as cheap or cheaper than a GY6.

Thanks a million for the measurements. I havent really measured her Yerf yet but it sounds like it would be a pretty easy swap. I have found a few old FL250's for sale on craig's list lately in the $400 - $500 range and that is what got me thinking about it. I agree, the rear axle width may be a problem especially with the additional power, I would really feel bad if she or my youngest daughter got hurt in it.

I have an extra FL350 frame that i could section onto the back of the Yerf, but I think a 67 mph Yerf may be a bit much. I sometimes forget that the Yerf was intended for my daughters and I have a 6 year old waiting in the wings for her turn behind the wheel.

[metalstudman1]

I think the FL350 would be a the better choice since it's IRS.I want to see that project!!!!

[metalstudman1]

Yesterday was an all day of play with the buggies- But today I did get something done!!! First thing I did was cut off the engine mount I made and make another one, so I had to do all that engine alignment stuff again (engine was too high/not enough belt adjustment). Mounted the engine and went to the parts store for exhaust 90's to modify the outlet- gotta wait till tomorrow for them to come in. Not much on waiting when I have time to work on a project so I tackled the fiberglass tail piece. My goal is to have the body pieces on so the theme of the buggy is complete- what a pain-in -the -@ss trying to get this to fit around the sled engine I had to butcher it 3 times to get it over the engine and then looked at it in it's original location -not too good. So I butchered somemore & lowered it till I think it looks right. Now I've got to fiberglass all those pieces back together!!!!
Got a 200+lb. buddy to sit in the buggy and I can barely pick the frontend up-also had him stand on the rear frame with me in it and couldn't pull the frontend off the ground. So it shouldn't be a wheelie puller like the sled powered Ody's on youtube.

[roysheepdog]

cool build

[metalstudman1]

Went to pick up my short 90's for the exhaust from the auto store and they sent 9" radius 90's instead of the 3" ones I ordered- come to find out they don't carry them anymore. So off to the steel yard, bought handrail 90's (thick but a tight smooth bend) The factory exhaust flange was basically straight- I need it to point upwards to be able to get the length on my expansion chamber and clearance from the driving compartment. I cut the "Y" off the stock flange ,measured the 90's to intersect leaving a 1-1/2" hole and cut the split-welded it up and cleaned the inside of the manifold for burrs. Attatched the manifold donut flange- ready for the real fun!!!!!!

[metalstudman1]

If you feel you need to test your sanity/patience this chore will do it!!!! I had a left over straight expansion chamber. My thinking is to keep the length the same as someone already did the math on it. Don't know how many bends it needs to get out to the muffler can location. So I started at the exhaust manifold and started measuring and butchering. What I found out really quick was- how do I hold these odd/tapered thin metal pieces of pipe to mark/fabricate and weld-up by myself? I only have 2 hands and clamps just don't work- There's the SANITY test!!! I marked miters and rotated the cut-off piece 180 degrees each time to keep the circumference the same to weld-up. Ended up 2" shorter than I started with- and just missed being straight onto the muffler can (came off a Polaris) flange. Didn't turn out too bad for my first time at creating a home built expansion chamber. If I get time I'll cut the 2 hard/mitered outside corners with some football shaped slivers to round them off- That's assuming I killed it's performance value. I could've just ran an exhaust pipe into a muffler but I like to hear that "rocks in a can" sound a 2 stroke has.

[metalstudman1]

Next item I need before I can start the thing up is a fuel tank. Since I don't have one just lying around - I'll make one! I'll use 18g. galvalene sheetmetal,a fuel cell cap then figured out where it would work best and measured up what I needed to get a 2gal.+/- tank. Sorry the pics are dark- the shiney thing behind the steering wheel and under the faux hood scoop is the tank. Worked out well- fueling from the front away from the hot engine,well protected from damage and still left good leg room.
Tomorrow it's back to the exhaust. I went through the motions of changing the belt and I'd have to remove/take loose the exhaust- that's not acceptable. I had a brain fart and figured out a way to support the whole system with the motor so when it moves forward or backwards it all moves together. Simple relocation of the can muffler and making some brackets- Next thing is a radiator and where to put it?

[roysheepdog]

this is a cool buggy.you do good fab work,good job on welding all that thin stuff.did your tank hold water on the first try?

[metalstudman1]

Thanx- we'll see how cool it turns out, This build was on a whim and by the seat of my pants with every decision.The tank being 18g was easy!!! My Miller Passport welder is awesome on thin stuff- too bad I can't see as well as I did a few years back!! I ground all the edges to verify thickness (watched for blueing) and had to hit a couple of questionable spots but no leaks (Put the gas cap on -through the fuel outlet I pumped it full of air while under water) Now the expansion chamber pipe is only 22g. and that was a chore, I bet I burned through 20 times with my welder turned down to zero.

[metalstudman1]

I re-tackled the exhaust and the engine/belt adjustment task-My goal is simplicity for service/maintenance. I spent a fair amount of time making every component accessible with "NO" special tools needed (preferrably with a crescent wrench). Re-worked the pipes made a underside engine plate that supports the exhaust sytem and added an adjustment bolt.Works perfectly. Still have a little tedious welding on the expansion chamber and some clean-up grinding. Next item is the radiator.Figuring out where to put it was all the work. The fiberglass body was cast cock-eyed so making the radiator appear straight with the body was fun. I had to devise a multi-adjustment mount, also hold the radiator with compression only-it worked !!! Over the next few days I'll figure out what pattern to drill the body in front of the radiator to get some air.
Any suggestions on a design?

[metalstudman1]

No pics today- I wired the 440cc 2-stroke engine,cleaned the carbs and 2nd pull it came to life
Got a sticking float as fuel runs out one of the over flows when it decelerates. Engine alignment looked good with the FL250 driven/gearbox. My axle bearings/seals came in so I'll tear it all apart for that install. Belt I had for the FL250 gearbox is a bit narrow for the Comet 102c clutch-so that's on the parts list.
Items left to complete:
replace axle bearings & seals-Driven rebuild/cleaning -gear oil
gas & brake pedal installation
linkage or cabling to gas & brake pedals
coolant lines run from front to rear
kill switch & temp gauge installation
air cleaner fabrication
seat adjuster & seat belt (looking for a 5 point harness)
rear bumper/push guard fabrication
fiberglass repairs
front skid pan fabrication
Anyone available to help?!!!!!!
If I'm lucky I might be ablle to make a test run this coming weekend (of course I'll video it for your amusement

[roysheepdog]

ill come help but you will have to come pick me up.lol

[metalstudman1]

Roysheepdog- Would enjoy the company/help for sure-Thanx for the offer- but I think the 2 days to get you and take you home might be better spent here- not counting the hundreds of dollars in fuel.lol!
Well all good things have to run into a snag or two- So I pull the gearbox & axle out to replace the bearings and seals-
Advertised by major manufacturer complete kit for rear axle of '84 FL250.Well now that I have it in pieces they're incorrect. Spent an hour taking pics and e-mailing the manufacturer-we'll see if I get a response. So I doubt a test drive this weekend is realistic.Tomorrow I'll just move forward with all the other items and hope they can get me the balance of the parts needed to put the gearbox & axle back on.

[metalstudman1]

Today I needed to deal with getting my bearings squared away with the manufacturer and verifing they were on the way as soon as possible. "All Balls" took care of my issues and when I seperated the gear case I found a bearing that just fell apart- so I ordered it from them and he said he'd just put it in the pack "No Charge" (can't argue with that!)
These pics are just to show the method I used to get my gear box & driven unit ready for the rebuild. Note: For you newbies you don't need a college education to work on this stuff. I've never opened up one of these gear boxes either!- So don't fear doing it yourself. Take your time and use care to pry the cases apart, take pics of the parts still assembled before pulling all the parts out so you'll have something to go back too when re-assembly time comes.

[metalstudman1]

Something that we don't talk about which is very important is cleaning parts. I don't have a big enough compressor to run a sand blaster so elbow grease is required! There are many over the counter cleaners/chemicals to accomplish this task but very expensive. These pics show my very inexpensive procedure. Alumibrite is the same chemical the big rigs use on their aluminum trailers- I bought a 5 gal bucket to use on my Harley mags,carbs,ect....

Bonus pics on how to prepare those rusty driven pulleys for near new performance.This procedure works on any size driven

[metalstudman1]

Didn't get much time to work on the buggy but did read up on a driven issue that I needed to resolve- sled clutch (Comet 102c) uses a much wider belt than the ody's driven (comet 700 series). There are many ways to resolve this and I went with this solution, only I figured I could do this in my shop instead of paying a machinist.

[Bootboy1488]

awesome stuff as usual metalstudman. when i get back from my vacation, i will probably have a load of questions for you. that thing should scoot along with the honda motor.

[metalstudman1]

Received my missing bearings and seals today- so I got to finish rebuilding the gearbox. Still waiting on the cam slippers/rubbers for the driven unit & the right length 1-1/4" belt I ordered to be able to see if the engine/drivetrain work correctly.

[metalstudman1]

Worked on a couple other things - making the engine totally adjustable for different belt lengths of 3"+/-. Also engine frame adjusts 2-1/2" right to left for different clutch set-ups.
Ran the radiator lines from the engine to underside the frame- hardest part of this was to keep the lines where the rear body can be removed without having to disconnect the lines. I welded nuts inbetween the lines as spacers and if I need to put a heat shield on I have an anchor point.

[metalstudman1]

Brother-in-law is in from Iraq so it was mostly a play day!!Eliminated another "To-Do" item off the list- spend a couple of hours shopping/making an aircleaner for the dual carbs. If the airflow works out I'll probably change out the plastic pieces to aluminum plate.I can also change the angle 22,45 or 90 degrees by adding cheap pvc fittings.
Total cost-Briggs & Stratton aircleaner available everywhere for riding lawnmower $9.(or find your own style air cleaner @ the auto parts store) + hardware/pvc pieces = $17. It's not a Uni-filter but I think it'll do the job!!!

[metalstudman1]

Got my cam slippers for the driven & 1-1/4" wide belt in today so now I can see if everything works!!! I just put the fuel line straight into a gas jug for this test.While cranking the engine to prime the carbs after re-setting the floats I found out the muffler choked the engine down (ALOT) so I pulled it off.I have a slight wobble in the driven pulley that I need to figure out.I didn't go to WOT throttle since I don't have the wheels/tires or a load on it. Here's a short vid of that test: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fh70dJrIrGU

[EJ Mac]

Great work, She spools up nice and quick. Can't wait to see the finished product.

[carter dude]

Originally Posted by metalstudman1

since i bought the kids their first go kart/buggy 3 years ago i've slapped together a few piles of junk into "fun" machines-made a go kart track and joined a buggy forum!!!
I might have a problem!!!
So-i go to finish the kids buggy (punisher with shaft drive motor) and no spark turns out the stator is bad (possibly more stuff) on "the known running honda bigred 250" craig's list engine!!! So now i gotta wait for another payday and rebuild time so i'm looking around for something to do and spot my engineless rusted out fl250 and see my $100. Commercial outlaw gokart from myrtle beach, just tripped over my 440 sled engine in the shop- -i've got a new project
Let's see what kind of monstrosity i can make with this stuff!!!

wow crazy fun

[metalstudman1]

Update- Well I took it out for a test drive Didn't have anyone to get any video-sorry. Wasn't much to see as it turns out. It goes 2-3 laps and runs out of gas-Hoping the floats need to be reset higher.The driven only opened half way,even with that it did 35+mph. I don't have much straight space on my track to really open it up safely yet!!!! It's a Odyessy with a body!!!!!Turning radius is better than I thought & it's bouncy and extremely light on the front end.The mechanical FL250 brake is incredibly efficient at locking up the rear tires.I Didn't pull a wheelie but it wouldn't take much to get one!- I didn't hit the throttle that hard just testing it.I climbed a couple of our hills just to see if it had any torque- it does! The thin gasket I have on my gas tank at the cap leaks when you hit the brakes and the gas is sloshing back & forth.Tomorrow I'll reset the floats make a thicker gasket and try again, hopefully with a camera person!!!

[carter dude]

Airborn

[metalstudman1]

Well no video I find a gear oil puddle under the gearbox So the missing seals that All Balls re-sent didn't work.So pulled it all apart again and put the old seal back in and it doesn't leak!!! So much for trying to doing it right!
Then I reset the floats- idles all day perfect but as soon as you hit the throttle it bogs down. It even backfired/coughed once @ WOT-

Since I'm not a 2-stroke guy I'm

Pulled the carbs & found evidence of an intake leak on one of the carbs boot and also found a chaffed/crimped wire at the coil cover from the CDI input to the coil. I pulled the plugs to guess-ta-mate the jetting, plugs still look brand new with very little black on them. Pulled the jets (3) and of course no numbers.
So tomorrow I research the symptoms:
sluggish when warmed up-exhaust tone is muffled, coughs then runs perfect
fuel/air adjustment doesn't change much from 3/4 turns out to 3 turns
backfiring or spitting out the carbs (only heard it once)
starving for fuel (that's what it seems like)fuel pump is excluded- it shoots fuel about 3' when disconnected, also I can see constant fuel thru the 1/4" clear lines.
have to choke it or push pedal down on restart when warmed up
Anyone have a clue what's going on?

[300cpilot]

Excellent work! I hope mine is a tenth this good!

[stugots]

Wish I could give some words of advice regarding the 2 stroke, but I got nuttin. Just wanted to chime in and say I love reading your articles, and hope you find someone to get some vid of it. Either that or get a tripod so you can just drive by the camera.

[EJ Mac]

might send a pm to krusekontrol he has some experience with that motor I believe and may be able to point you in the right direction.

[metalstudman1]

Thanx EJ

[metalstudman1]

Don't know if I resoved my issues yet as I added thicker gaskets to the gas tank,sealed the intake boots, re-checked the float levels on both carbs again and added exhaust manifold gaskets.After doing some reading about this 440 engine I find the wrong spark plugs are in it and it's supposed to be run with only 92 octane or better (I was using 87 octane).So tomorrow I'll get some GOOD gas and correct spark plugs. Hopefully it'll run right!!!!Of course round up a camera person too-

[EJ Mac]

Sounds like all you did should certainly help if not solve the issues. Good Luck.

[metalstudman1]

I'm hoping the same thing-I didn't bother krusekontrol yet, trying to narrow my list down of the obvious first.No testing today- had a gulley washer earlier 3+" of rain!!!!Loving the cooler temps, but WAY TOO muddy to get back up our entry hill to the track.

[metalstudman1]

Couldn't find an auto parts with the plugs spec'd so more research for ones that will work and not burn it up! Here's a vid after other adjustments:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYdAX-n3jZQ
Neighbor came by to borrow something and it wasn't pouring rain so I coerced him into shooting video!!!Sorry-He has "NO EXPERIENCE" shooting video!!! Also I had the gas pedal disconnected for shop testing (would've had to pull front fiberglass to re-connect), so I'm working the throttle with one hand and trying to steer with the other- not a real good scenerio
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-dLS7n2nD2s
First trip out on the track it's not warmed up and the choke isn't hooked up yet.Didn't realize I was running on a flat tire either!This is what happens when you're spontaneous with the neighbor!

[carter dude]

i like the looks of it, little tank

[Krusekontrol]

What do you need to know about the plugs? If it's the temps you don't need to run a cooler plug on both sides. Just add the coolest temp plug to number 1 and you can still run a hotter plug on 2. You can also use a little more oil in the mix for summer season. You'll get more smoke but it won't damage anything. Your 440 is diffferent then my old rotex but the same rules should apply.

[300cpilot]

Where did you get your air filter for this guy? Never mind, I just saw the earlier post.

[metalstudman1]

Update- Still waiting on parts that I thought would have been here by now-new carb boots & spec'd spark plugs. Been busy so it's just sat this week. I'm trying to get it running properly before completing the balance of the build to verify the power plant will remain.

[300cpilot]

Glad to hear your still going.

[metalstudman1]

Well it's official!!!! I've built a death trap !!!!! Installed new parts-fired her up and took it for a spin-runs excellent now with no hesitation thru the throttle range-then decided to try WOT. It pulls small wheelies(not good for me) and has way too much power too quickly to control without some type of rear suspension. Sitting still I did a donut to have it tip on 2 wheels in a blink-NOT GOOD,almost went over and got my older heart racing for the wrong reasons!!!!Back to the drawing board-I'm sure you haven't noticed but each one of my builds utilizes a different set-up and engine configuration to see what's drivable and economical to build.This design (Odyessy FL250 w/ body)isn't something to duplicate unless you're in to DANGER!!!! I'm going to give some serious thought on how to make it drivable and utilize all that power SAFELY.I'll post something when I get it figured out.

[metalstudman1]

I'm not a 2-stroke mechanic ----yet!!!! It gets better!!! check out this short vid if you're into a good mystery!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwtHLaE4_94

Can't believe this engine runs/starts this good on just one cylinder!!!!After doing the dumb man process of elimination it's not a bad coil,spark plug,CDI or plugwire. Either cylinder will function properly when hooked up individually but not when hooked up together.Tomorrow I'll go through the simple wiring from the stator to the CDI to see if I've grounded something incorrectly.Don't know how strong it'll be on TWO cylinders!!!! it's fast with just the ONE!!!
Any input on what's wrong would be well appreciated

[300cpilot]

My old Honda motorcycle would not run on one cylinder so your engine is a mystery running good on one.

Does this engine fire both plugs at the same time or one at a time? Mine (different 2 stroke though) fires both at the same time because, both pistons hit tdc at the same time.

I have a couple guesses, one that your stator voltage is to low and it will not fire both coils or that your plug gap is to large. Also look at the clearence between the flywheel and the coil pickup, if this motor has one?

[metalstudman1]

Thanx 300cpilot-I'll check into those items

[300cpilot]

Also the easiest way I can think of to safely harness all that power is larger tires.

[metalstudman1]

300cpilot- I'd say the plugs don't fire at the same time as there is a firing ring and the there is 2 pick-up's. and they're not 180 degrees from each other based off the diagram I looked up. Plug gap is good (.28-.30), both coils are good (thru dummy test!),CDI is working properly when one cylinder isn't hooked up. With both plugs out and grounded the spark on #1 is as bright/loud a blue spark as you could ask for- the #2 fires bright the first stroke then nothing. If I disconnect #1 coil from the CDI-#2 fires bright everytime or normally.This tells me both pick up's are gapped correctly.It's got to be the stator is weak? Does anyone know how to check the high & low coils on the stator without removing it?

[300cpilot]

I do know that if you can get to the field coils, you can test for open's, which are what would cause the voltage to be low. Is there a charging circuit off of it the you could put a voltmeter on and see what the voltage is while the engine is running. It would be nice if we knew what it needs to be, but I would guess that if you have a bad field coil then it would be around 11 volts max, reved up above 2000rpm. Or a blown rectifier, would put you under 6 volts, if it has one.

[metalstudman1]

It's a direct wired system.Stator,firing ring,flywheel,CDI,coils and spark plugs-is all the electrical components.The alternator portion isn't hooked up- I did test it and have 13.6-14 volts just incase I wanted a starter,lights,ect... Unfortunately the service manual shows all the tests for the stator using their (John Deere) meters/lights only so the values won't match a regular volt meter. Testing the stator showed high side coil=46 ohms, low side coil=273 ohms so the reading on the low coil must be just low enough not to provide sufficient current to both capacitors in the CDI.
I'm weighing my options right now- A new stator is around $150. I may just button this thing up with the rest of the body and sell it the way it is since my kids would never be able to drive it without adding a suspension to the rear(more money) .It runs well on just one cylinder!!!! This makes 3 engines/projects in my yard that have a bad stator right now !!!! I need a friend in the electrical winding business !!

[300cpilot]

You should be able to get it rewound pretty cheap, if the electric shop has a coil winder that goes that small. If you were measuring the actual coils your meter would be under 1 ohm, I suspect you have something else in the middle that is giving you a higher reading. Put up a couple of pictures of where you are measuring, so I can wrap my mind around what you are working on. You have taken the stator out of the engine right?

Of course if you get it sold, what would be your next project?

[metalstudman1]

The stator is still in- I used the manuals wiring diagram to find the wires to the high & low coils to measure them. If I posted a pic it would simply be 7 wires coming out of the engine case!!!! I'm trying to get a cost/response from a local electrical shop for rewinding it. My wife says sell it and move on- After she caught a glimpse of me testing it the other night running WOT and nearly turning it over she's not too happy with it/me!!!!she's afraid the kid's will drive it or I'll get hurt playing with it. If I sell it? -it would help fund my multiple of ongoing buggy/kart projects I need to finish that ARE family friendly!!!

[300cpilot]

Sometimes the wife is right. If you think it is a monster then it is probaby best to sell it.

[metalstudman1]

My wife is "ALWAYS" right Hopefully I'll get an idea/price on a stator fix tomorrow- I'll proceed from there. I'll sell it but I want it to be as right/drivable as I can make it. Some young BULLETPROOF person will buy it!!!!!

[300cpilot]

She's standing over your shoulder huh.

[GX150]

Widening the track and gearing it down will make it much more controllable while dropping the top speed. It will spin the tires more, but should reduce the wheelies if the tires have more torque than traction.

[metalstudman1]

Thanks to everyone for all your input.
Bummer with every project is that it can turn into a money pit no matter how resourceful and self reliant we are!!!! This unplanned project is $760. deep so far. I have to remind myself-"this is just a hobby". But HATE not to finsh something I've started in a timely manner.
Already trying to figure out how to widen the track -offset wheels,wheel spacers,ect... Having a custom wider axle made isn't in the budget!!!! But possibly trying to do it myself is!! They don't sell/make(to my knowlege) a lower (only higher) gear for the FL250 gearbox. I'm dropping off the stator Tuesday for rewinding-still no comfirmation of a cost on that just to get it running on both cylinders. Once that's done-another test drive to see what additional horsepower it does have to deal with-then proceed with a game plan for drivability and safety.Clutch tuning can almost eliminate the wheelie issues but still need to make sure that climbing ability isn't lost due to incorrect weight distribution- that will be checked soon on one of our steep hills.

[300cpilot]

I have a feeling that when you have both cylinders firing, you will have a permanant grin and you will not part with it. It will be Daddy's Buggy ONLY!

[metalstudman1]

Update- Well not really!!! Called about my stator rewind and it's still sitting ,waiting on someone to evaluate it for a quote. But did manage to grade and build a 4 vehical/equipment shed in my down time!!!!

[SYCARMS]

I have a feeling if you get the other cylinder to fire you might have the wife near by with a quick change of shorts. What power you are getting on one cylinder you will more then double on 2. It would make a great drag buggy.

TOM

[metalstudman1]

Tom-I agree with the drag buggy scenerio-not much call for a drag race at my house!!!! I'm at an impasse- I want to build a swingarm and widen the track for a more stable ride, but my wife wants it gone as soon as possible after seeing me nearly turning it over at such a low speed.She feels it's it will continue to cost us through modifications and possibly medical bills!!! She probably right, If I can ever get my stator repaired I'll make a judgement call with another test drive.

[SYCARMS]

A good suspension would make a world of difference with stability.
TOM

[metalstudman1]

I definitely agree Tom, But everything costs something!!!! Well called the re-winding company for a status on my stator and they've given up on trying to work on it!! I'll pick it up tomorrow and take it somewhere else and try again!.

[metalstudman1]

Update- Got my stator back from being rewound ($150.) Installed it, checked for spark at both cylinders and "Yes" we have good spark. Fired it up and "Wow" what a difference,go to throttle it up and it just bogs down till WOT. Took it for a spin and nothing from idle till WOT and then lots of power but not a real smooth tone. Back to the drawing board- Timing?,expansion chambers large section isn't big enough?, not enough fuel delivery? and don't know what else Idles/starts like a champ but bogs/starves for fuel when carb slides move up.Pulled carbs, checked for trash-nothing, re-gapped plugs-no improvement.
One good thing is that I bought a new set of 22 x 11 x 8 ITP mudlites and it's nowhere near as bouncy. I changed out the spring in the clutch so it engages much sooner so the front-end only raises to the top of the suspension before launching-no more wheels off the ground at take off!!!!.I put everything back like it came apart as far as the timing/firing ring goes,setting the timing requires flywheel removal again so I'm going to pull the expansion chamber off and rebuild it first to see if that helps it throttle up at lower rpm's better.Didn't get video because it was rainy out today. Hopefully something will go my way! and I can take it for a successful drive running properly.

[300cpilot]

Do you have the carbs sync'd? My old honda 350 twin did that if they were not sync'd. Just hook up a vac gauge and make sure both carbs are the same at idle & WOT. The other thought is if the gap is not set right for the stator? If it is even adjustable? If not then open up the exhaust and if it runs better then it is the pipe.

[SYCARMS]

I am no expert with 2 cycle engines but have worked on a few. Check all your seals for leakage since the crank case holds vacume. If a seal is leaking your case looses vacume. They make vacume leak gauges for 2 cycle's. With out one you check for oil leaks first then soapy water and watch for bubbles.

TOM

[300cpilot]

I would suggest you use oil to check for a vaccume leak. If it sucks water in there you will need to disassemble the engine to clean it out.

[metalstudman1]

Thanx gentlemen! I know the carbs are sync'd,no air gap to deal with only a firing ring adjustment for timing.I'll check for vacuum leaks. What gets me is that with one cylinder it ran perfectly smooth through the throttle- I'll just keep throwing time & money at it!!!!(my wife was right again-MONEY PIT) But I'm having fun mostly with a side of frustration- it's a hobby!!!

[RDomke]

Glad you have a good attitude about it all. If it were not for the problems we would not learn anything.
I'm the same, mine is a SRV 540 into a Fl 250 kart. Every time I work on it, "its what about this or what about that". I do keep at it, and can only hope I have as much fortitude as you have had.
Good luck. :-)

RDomke@Comcast.Net

[300cpilot]

Originally Posted by RDomke

Glad you have a good attitude about it all. If it were not for the problems we would not learn anything.
I'm the same, mine is a SRV 540 into a Fl 250 kart. Every time I work on it, "its what about this or what about that". I do keep at it, and can only hope I have as much fortitude as you have had.
Good luck. :-)

RDomke@Comcast.Net

Wow that is about the same thing I am building in my post! Yamaha SRV 540 into a Dazon 250. Take a look at my post @ http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/sh...ead.php?t=2083
Studman keep at it, you will be rewarded!

[RDomke]

Jealous here,, you all have great ideas. It looks and sounds like you are getting it together too.
My project is going with original (540) clutches; I’m waiting for a 540 jackshaft to come in from Wisconsin ( I need the splines) then I can line up the loose parts over the frame and see where I will have to cut and make adjustments. Right now it looks like my frame behind the seat is to short. If I do cut the frame I’ll install pivots and shocks too. I’m up in the air about the FL 250 trans, I may use it or go right to the axel.
Oh well—a note of humor, my FL250 has split rims, the rims are in two equal pieces with a gasket in between to seal. ATV shops around here did not have anything that would work. I went and bought four toilet plungers and cut the lips off , I now have four sealed rim tires, damn if it didn’t work.
Good luck
I’m watching.
RDomke@Comcast.Net

[metalstudman1]

RDomke- That's funny!! I just use RTV silicone as the rubber "O" rings are so hard to get right. You need to start a thread & post some pics for us to be jealous over!!
Well after investigating my possible fuel delivery issue I discovered that the Galvalene metal I used to make the tank with is shedding little flecks and completely clogged the fuel filter and had sediment in the fuel lines. Went and bought some 16 G sheet metal for the re-work on the expansion chamber and to make another gas tank. Here's how this tank came out- I took advantage of making it larger since this thing can burn up some fuel!! salvaged the neck,cap & petcock from one of my junk Honda chassis.

[300cpilot]

You have some talent!

[RDomke]

Damn,, looks good! Great job. I think I may try that tank assembly for a 54 Cushman Allstate I have. I have a lawnmower tank strapped on it now, but it works and rides good too.
I had thought of the sealant between the wheel halfs of my FL250 too. I was just to lazy to clean them when they had to come apart again.
I will try and take some pictures today, then I'll figure how to post them.

RDomke@Comcast.Net

[metalstudman1]

Update- Well I rebuilt the expansion chamber with the specifications from numerous web sites about how to make it correctly, I also copied pics of pipes from many different manufacturers for the same engine-scaled the diameters and lengths to get it as close as I can.I fire it up and it's better, then added my stinger/spark arrest pipe to the end and it's much better,I slip another smaller diameter pipe in inside that 7/8" pipe reducing it down to 1/2" and it came alive!!!!I'll post some pics and possibly video later just for informations sake.Still have to mount the new gas tank and it's raining again so I wouldn't be able to test drive it anyways. I did check for vacuum leaks and found none.

[metalstudman1]

Still raining so no push to mount gas tank (domestic duties first)But did video the new & improved expansion chamber-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfSDDz3HZ0w
Kinda self-explanatory-You can also see the quicker engagement of the clutch too.

[SYCARMS]

It sounds much better and looks to be a better burn coming from the exhaust. Can't wait to see how it runs on the groung. Great job on the fuel tank.

TOM

[metalstudman1]

Okay so the rain let up for a couple of hours and twisted my wife's arm to shot some vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KOEOv4dj6k Sorry about nothing spectacular!- I had to putt up the hill because the storms had dropped lots of limbs.
It runs bad under a load- misses . The new gas tank has a leak (a few drops on the floor board after test run) As I watched the clear fuel line it was full of air bubbles and I feel it's still starving itself for fuel.I think I need to elevate the tank so it has lots of gravity feed to the fuel pump, the pump does great when there's fuel getting to it!
I hate to say it but I'm going to move this project out of the way for awhile to put a new power plant in the wife's Black Spiderbox & straighten/replace an axle I bent in my "different type of buggy" the other day.