my new yerf dog project

[jmansracerocket]

top end felt pretty good also probally around 35mph range i could be cruising and step and it still has some pull

[T3beatz]

good to hear, I guess you have to just work on the steering next.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by T3beatz

good to hear, I guess you have to just work on the steering next.

yes the turn to the left def needs 2 teeth and the turn to the right doesnt need any so ill have to c i might just do 2 teeth on both sides to play it safe but for now, well tomorrow lol will be trail riding and shock testing

[jmansracerocket]

and i need to get a dam reverse installed in this thing i hate not having reverse i was looking into this kit http://www.motopartscenter.com/rever...e&file_id=603c

[T3beatz]

That wont work unless you have an aftermarket axle installed where you can move the sprocket from side to side on.

You will need something like this ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/GT-Reverse-a...ht_2890wt_1397

or this... http://www.ebay.com/itm/GY6-150cc-Re...373954&vxp=mtr
these where only 89 with free shipping, but for some reason the price has jumped over 100bucks! You can find them for around 150 at other places

http://www.chineseatvonline.com/gear...s-p-12842.html


As far as the turn goes... You have to make sure the rack is centered, then set the wheels strait, check after that to see if your turning is equal. If it's not equal after that then your spindle might be bent, or something else is off.

[jmansracerocket]

lol man this buggy stuff is like never ending

[metalstudman1]

Glad you FREE'D the beast!! Happy you're getting to go enjoy your hard work.
Your steering- just because it turns better one way than the other just means things aren't lined up correctly. When you bend a steering arm/tie-rod and straighten it back it makes a small change to the turning radius,this also occurs when the spindle get's bent along with ball joint wear & tear. When you decide to do your additional tooth work on the rack -that's when you need to make adjustments to your steering arms/tie-rods to correct it for equal turning radius. You can groove the rack on either side or split it up and still have the same issue!!!!

[jmansracerocket]

yeah it felt good but im sure the neighbors around the whole block didnt appricate at 10pm but man i had to do it lol.

[metalstudman1]

Originally Posted by roysheepdog

Ok I was just wondering,if it works better for the dogs its a good deal.
Hows the wheel control in a hard turn,does it lean out at the top?My aarms are not the same length by a few '' and still have pore wheel control.The hole buggy is getting a make over,Im starting on it tomorrow!

Don't want to side track this thread with unrelated vid's- Roy I have several vid's that show the orientation of the tires thru turns and bumps- they camber exactly the way you want a tire too in a turn for an aggressive bite, respond very well to body roll & doesn't require much steering force to handle. IMO-These are the traits you want in a mini-buggy. As we all know!!! any set-up can function well or terrible with the slighest change in many areas of the construction.

[jmansracerocket]

i really want a tach on this thing so i can see what gains i will be getting with parts im looking into the vapor tech tach

[T3beatz]

The Trail Tech Vapor is a great item to have, it does everything you would want it to do and it logs The Max for speed, temp, odometer, engine time, and RPMs. You can reset the RPM, Speed, and Temp max, but not the odometer and engine time (unless you reset it from the back). It was one of the better purchases I made for my buggy.

[jmansracerocket]

man this buggy is a blast to drive threw the trails! the buggy def needs some more power, the gearing that it has feels good and i like it. still have the stock clutch spring and stock sliders or rollers whatever came with. Time to test out the bd shocks out now.

[jmansracerocket]

buggy down! i couldnt help playing even longer and look what happens

[jmansracerocket]

[jmansracerocket]

il see if the old man can weld all four arms for me

[metalstudman1]

Do yourself a favor and weld a solid triangle plate and drill just the 3/8" hole in the center and get rid of the washers. If it ain't breaking it ain't being drove hard enough!!!!

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by metalstudman1

Do yourself a favor and weld a solid triangle plate and drill just the 3/8" hole in the center and get rid of the washers. If it ain't breaking it ain't being drove hard enough!!!!

awesome quote metalstudman! it was getting driven hard! the heavy duty ball joints and heavy duty spindles where probally putting so much stress on that junk little ring off the control arm. I have to say top speed for my buggy feels like only about 30mph, needs more power but in the trails she makes her way.

[metalstudman1]

That's not my quote just my philosophy!!!! 30mph in the trails is FLYING without a parachute!!!

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by metalstudman1

That's not my quote just my philosophy!!!! 30mph in the trails is FLYING without a parachute!!!

yes i hit top speed every time in the straight away on the street though the top end once u hit it it feels slow, with the wider front end now and the rear end being more narrow then the front. When i am going that fast in the straight in the trails the rear feels a little unstable i know once i get my bigger rear tires they r going to help alot.

[jmansracerocket]

here is ******** wheel hubs, garbage!

[T3beatz]

You have to get the good bearings and put a spacer in between them. Mine have lasted me for a while now since I have done this. These are the bearings I use... http://www.*************/item/High-Sp...38-600641-6980

If you don't do the spacer, all of the pressure from tightening the bolt rest on the bearings flange, and also the inner race has a load pushing on it at all times with no support.

[jmansracerocket]

that bearing link is 1/2 inch, mine are 5/8 bearings, ill bang out the bearing that are in the hubs and put new ones in but yes im looking for different bearings

[jmansracerocket]

ur saying use a spacer? or a washer because im already using the stock spacer on the inside of the spindle shaft, so il get washers then ? so its not putting pressure on the bearing, correct me if im wrong. heres what i found

http://www.*************/item/High-Sp...ID-600625-5870

[T3beatz]

Sorry bad link, The bearings I bought are exactly like the ones in the link, but they are 5/8" ID, The flange is heavy duty unlike the crap bearings that come with the hubs.

The spacer should be between the bearings, inside the hubs... it will be a little over 2"... If you can find some 5/8" ID tubing you can use it just cut it to size. Basically when you tighten down the bolt that holds the hub on, that spacer will distribute the pressure from the outside bearing to the inside bearing, and from there onto the spacer that is next to the spindle wall.

Just look at it like this, between the bearings is air... with the bolt tightened down it puts pressure on the outside bearing, the spacer that is next to the spindle is putting pressure on the inside bearing. When you are driving and turning, that is extra pressure applied. After a while the inner race starts to develop play and eventually will give out. Now if there is a spacer between the Races it is lest likely for them to buckle inward, and it also takes pressure off of the Flange that holds the bearings in place, So now you can even run bearings that don't have the flange on them because the spacer is keeping the bearings where they should be. If you really want to get fancy you can run two bearings on both sides, one with a flange for the outside and one without for the inside.

[T3beatz]

here is the link to the bearings... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-2-Maglin...ht_4466wt_1164

[jmansracerocket]

thanks t3 i will be ordering those bearings u sent me the link for, isn't there already 2 bearings on each wheel hub? one on each side ur saying with a spacer in between them? so ill have to order 4 bearings.

[T3beatz]

Yep, you will need 4 bearings. make the spacer long enough on the inside so that the flange is not taking most of the load from tightening down the bolt.

[jmansracerocket]

I'm going to use a washer on both outsides of the bearing so the load is more even on the bearings

[T3beatz]

Well, the problem is the washer does not matter if you don't have the spacer between them. The washer will still push on the inner race and it will pop out (or in) just like the ones you have now. It will take longer with the better bearings but it still may do it eventually.

Once I get a chance I will take pics of my setup so you can see what I mean.

[jmansracerocket]

new bearings ordered, and control arms getting reinforced

[jmansracerocket]

i know how much u guys love pics so here's some more progress.

new bearings in! thank u t3beatz this bearings r so much better.

primed the flooring

2 coats of flat black


drivers side

passengers side

[jmansracerocket]

still have alot left to do really need to get the extra teeth cut into the rack i would like 4 extra teeth, needs realy front shocks, mud flaps are on there way , and yes i need to sand and paint the passenger side now.

[metalstudman1]

Nice job so far!

[T3beatz]

Looks good, those bearings should hold together for a while, if you put the 5/8" ID spacer in the middle of them they will last even longer.

I uploaded a pic so you will know what I'm talking about.

If there is no spacer the bolt from the outside will press on the inner race of the outer bearing and eventually pop it out of the bearing after a lot of hard driving and re-tightening of the bolt. With the spacer it supports the inner race of both bearings making them last much longer, and taking the pressure off of the flange to hold the bearings in place.

[jmansracerocket]

where r u guys ordering ur 39tooth axle gear from? and did u have to change the chain?? thank you

[T3beatz]

if you have a reverse gearbox installed with the 16T sprocket you will have to change the chain or add links to it (easier just to get a new chain with the breaker tool and cut it to the correct size). If you just have the stock sprocket and the 39T one you should be fine with the stock chain.

I got my chain from highrpmracer.com but they have very bad service, but good prices.

I would try and contact Tom from the banner up top.

Just a tip, don't go with the 39T sprocket unless you want to top out at around 30mph!

[jmansracerocket]

still dont have reverse yet, but i got my mud flaps from bd !!!!!! so i have to get them installed, and i got some goodies coming from tom at syc ! and just bought the wife a helmet lol, had to throw that in there

[jmansracerocket]

http://www.*************/item/8-Rim-260080-760

with the new tires i have 22x11x8 will these rims work with the rear of the yerf?

or if there is any other opinions or options out there with a white rim to match the fronts.

[T3beatz]

No, they wont, not with the stock rear hubs. Those rims have a 4x4" bolt pattern, the stock hubs have a 4x110mm pattern. Your best bet is to just use the stock rims and just paint them if you want them white (or get them powder coated).

I painted all of mine black, front and back.

[jmansracerocket]

ill try to tackle getting them painted this weekend i have to pry off the old tires

[T3beatz]

yeah, that can be tough without a machine, I got lucky on a couple of mine, but on some I just had to bite the bullet and take them to the local discount tire shop and get them swapped out.

[jmansracerocket]

yeah if i cant get them off by hand ill have them taken off then get them painted then put the new tires on.

[jmansracerocket]

man installed the 10gram rollers the other day, the buggy feels so much more alive!!! and put the hammerhead exhuast back on this thing feels like a totally different buggy i love it.

[jmansracerocket]

just ordered a 35tooth sprocket cant wait! do i need to add links to to the chain ??

[T3beatz]

I don't know about the 35t sprocket, I know with the 39t one and a reverse kit you do. I'd say no, I but I would grab an extra chain to be safe.

[jmansracerocket]

hey t3 hey did it feel from swithcing from rollers to sliders???

[T3beatz]

Yeah a little, I can tell my engine does not rev as high on a strait run because of the heavier sliders, I went with 13g instead of 12g.

But I did loose a little speed on long steep uphill climbs because of the heavier weight... I have this hill in my trails that I usually hit 9-10mph, but with the sliders I top out around 7-8mph. But I gained a little more speed on the straits, not enough to really justify anything, maybe 1-2mph.

[jmansracerocket]

gotcha so u swapped the 1-2mph down low to get the 1-2 back up top

[T3beatz]

Yep, gotta give a little to get a little. 30mph was around my target, in the trails I don't go over 20 90% of the time. It's just when we get out to the flats is where I get spanked at, I plan on getting a BBK this winter and hopefully that will spice it up a little and get me just a little more top end.

[jblaze]

Was wondering....How is that hammerhead exhaust working for you now that you have ran it for a while? I was thinking of getting it for my Yerf and wanted to see what would be the review you would give it. Did it end up burning up your engine cover?

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by jblaze

Was wondering....How is that hammerhead exhaust working for you now that you have ran it for a while? I was thinking of getting it for my Yerf and wanted to see what would be the review you would give it. Did it end up burning up your engine cover?

my review on the exhaust is the fitment is 2/5 rating, sound is 5/5, and performance is 4/5. All and all i like it just fitment was a pita. a little pricey as well but not much other ones out there.

[jmansracerocket]

oh sorry and no that cover is for the clutch and variator so no biggy i sanded it down a little.

[jmansracerocket]

my first opinion though if your riding it hard threw the trails beef up the front end on the yerf first! trust me lol

[T3beatz]

You said that right Jman, I don't know how much punishment I've put my front end through in the past few weeks, it is still going strong after I've beefed it up a bit.

25mph into the back of a Polaris is not good, bent a bunch of stuff up but I was able to beat it back into shape to ride the next week.

[jmansracerocket]

lol wish i was closer to u guys for the most part i ride by myself

[bear]

Well then sounds to me like its time to spread the addiction! invite a couple of friends or work buddies to go out riding with u and the next thing u know u got all kinds of people wanting to know where to get there own and when ur going riding again!!! keepem rollin bear

[jblaze]

I know what your talking about Jman. Usually I'm out by myself, but I luck out mostly cause my wife and daughter like to get dirty so we end up taking out the quads as well. I have another post up right now threading if heims are better than HD ball joints. I think im going to have to do the HD ball joints since I don't know how to fabricate. Then upgrade to the hub, get new front shocks with lift kit, and bigger tires. Is this the list for the front end or is there more?

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by jblaze

I know what your talking about Jman. Usually I'm out by myself, but I luck out mostly cause my wife and daughter like to get dirty so we end up taking out the quads as well. I have another post up right now threading if heims are better than HD ball joints. I think im going to have to do the HD ball joints since I don't know how to fabricate. Then upgrade to the hub, get new front shocks with lift kit, and bigger tires. Is this the list for the front end or is there more?

thats a perfect start jblaze, hd ball joints, and get the hd spindles also! they are basically a must the stock ones are junk and twist and bend.

[jmansracerocket]

a little update for the thread, had my first roll over today lol a little scary but not a scratch on the buggy nor me lol. with the upgrades i have i gps speedo the buggy today with my new phone top speed is right around the 30mph thats it still have the stock head and that might really be hurting me, but i still have the stock sprocket as the one i ordered was out of stock. Im going to do a compression test on it and see what its at. By the way the bd rear shocks are a very good upgrade compared to stock much softer but doesnt bottom out. i will keep u guys updated.

[jmansracerocket]

a little update for you guys winter is here for me in ny, long island. i have had a blast with the spiderbox this summer and i have a couple more plans for it this winter . Just so u guys know i upgraded the steering rack with 6 extra teeth 3 on each side and love it!!!! well worth it! i highly recommend it. I also adjusted the air pressure in all 4 tires and did a liitle carb tweaking and bam! top speed is 35-36mph for top speed. Im hoping to do some head work and mill it .30 over and port it some to give it a little more power. I might even do a bbk 62mm with a 2.2 stroker crank depending on how well i do on my taxes. Im def going to upgrade the fuel tank setup as i cant stand the stock fuel tank its so small and always leaks a little bit of fuel out of the cap with hard riding.

[Masteryota]

Originally Posted by jmansracerocket

a little update for you guys winter is here for me in ny, long island. i have had a blast with the spiderbox this summer and i have a couple more plans for it this winter . Just so u guys know i upgraded the steering rack with 6 extra teeth 3 on each side and love it!!!! well worth it! i highly recommend it. I also adjusted the air pressure in all 4 tires and did a liitle carb tweaking and bam! top speed is 35-36mph for top speed. Im hoping to do some head work and mill it .30 over and port it some to give it a little more power. I might even do a bbk 62mm with a 2.2 stroker crank depending on how well i do on my taxes. Im def going to upgrade the fuel tank setup as i cant stand the stock fuel tank its so small and always leaks a little bit of fuel out of the cap with hard riding.

I'm with you on the fuel tank upgrade, I think it only holds 3/4 gallon anyway, I'm looking to upgrade mine for a different reason though. Bigger Engine! I'm sure it will be in the way for the donor engine, so I am looking for something I can add to the rear rack, only thing I found so far is almost a $100, but it's 4 gallons and looks pretty stout.

I too am looking at adding teeth to my rack, but kinda scared I might fu@! it up. I like the plates you added to the control arms too, nice and beefy.

[jmansracerocket]

I tried cutting the teeth myself on my old rack and man it was not fun and I messed it up so bad ! I ordered a new rack with the extra teeth from bd. If I could just do it over again I would have just ordered it right away. the stock turning radius is horrible and beefing up the stock control arms r a must along with the spindles.

[Masteryota]

Bit of advice, in the pics you posted of the hubs, your lug nuts are on backwards. The beveled side goes toward the wheel to match the bevel of the opening in the wheel. If this is not done correctly, you run the risk of the lug nuts coming loose and losing a wheel. Just flip them around and don't over tighten them and you should be good to go.

Edit: This also centers the wheel on the hub, might make the ride a bit smoother as well.

[T3beatz]

I did my own teeth, I just took my time with a dremel and it turned out pretty good, but it's not for the faint of heart. How are those bearings holding up? did they fail yet? Mine are still good, with the spacer in the middle.

I have some work to do on my engine as well to get it back in tip top shape, I can feel that I'm loosing power, I'm just gonna rebuild the top end with a 59mm BBK. I also have rolled my buggy a couple times so I have a bit of unbending to do, and I had to buy a new front nose piece.

[Masteryota]

Originally Posted by T3beatz

I did my own teeth, I just took my time with a dremel and it turned out pretty good, but it's not for the faint of heart. How are those bearings holding up? did they fail yet? Mine are still good, with the spacer in the middle.

I have some work to do on my engine as well to get it back in tip top shape, I can feel that I'm loosing power, I'm just gonna rebuild the top end with a 59mm BBK. I also have rolled my buggy a couple times so I have a bit of unbending to do, and I had to buy a new front nose piece.

Thats what I'm thinking as well, doesn't look real hard to do, but still intimidating.

With all the cash sunk into the engine and CVT, wouldn't it be more cost effective to swap in, lets say, a 250cc bike engine and really turn the heat up?

[x-bird]

Originally Posted by Masteryota

Bit of advice, in the pics you posted of the hubs, your lug nuts are on backwards. The beveled side goes toward the wheel to match the bevel of the opening in the wheel. If this is not done correctly, you run the risk of the lug nuts coming loose and losing a wheel. Just flip them around and don't over tighten them and you should be good to go.

Edit: This also centers the wheel on the hub, might make the ride a bit smoother as well.

a lot of the rims --especially the chinese atvs --- use a basic hex nut with the stud holes being flat and just oversized enough to get them on. on these, if you use tapered nuts, you do need to put them on backwards or else the tapered side will come loose easily since there's very little seated area. otherwise, golf cart and a few of the buggy rims are just as you stated.

[Masteryota]

When I looked at the wheels in the pics, I see a raised area around the holes, meaning it likely has a bevel for the taper to seat into. Trust me, we see this all the time at the shop when customers have to put their own spares on and wonder why it vibrates so bad. In some cases, it will damage the bevel in the wheel to the point they aren't useable, but thats normally after extended use. Just trying to save some headaches is all.

[jmansracerocket]

T3 these bearings r awesome it was an awesome upgrade espically for the price ty for that info

[x-bird]

Originally Posted by Masteryota

When I looked at the wheels in the pics, I see a raised area around the holes, meaning it likely has a bevel for the taper to seat into. Trust me, we see this all the time at the shop when customers have to put their own spares on and wonder why it vibrates so bad. In some cases, it will damage the bevel in the wheel to the point they aren't useable, but thats normally after extended use. Just trying to save some headaches is all.

looking back at the pic again, i agree with you--those nuts need reversed. i have both rim types on my buggies including some yerf ones that are flat around the holes and used lock washers.

[jmansracerocket]

For now im going to do the fuel tank setup, beef up the front frame, beef up the front box. I need to cut the rear shock brackets off and relocate them for the longer softer shocks I have which I love compared to stock

[jmansracerocket]

anyone else try a different front shock for our yerfs?

[Masteryota]

I'm in the same boat jman, looking to upgrade entire front end and add some height too. I am told snowmobile shocks do well, and some say small cc quads are good too. Your stockers measure ~9.75" eye to eye, so something in the 10" range would likely set you nice without having to mod anything. I'm looking at 12-13" for mine but I will end up with longer A-arms after the heims are in place and bulkhead is done, so I will likely have to play with the shock mount locations to find a good compromise between height and ride quality.

If you are curious, the more straight up and down the shock is mounted, the softer the ride will be but may open you up to bottoming out. I might suggest making bracket with a few holes in it to play around with the shock angle to fine tune your suspension. Some C-channel or even rectangular tubing with one side cut out would do nicely.

If you don't mind the price tag, BD has a nice looking 3" lift kit for the Yerf's, I'm holding out till someone posts some feedback on them before I buy.

[jmansracerocket]

Im going to stop by some atv shops tomorrow to see what they have I am telling you from experience the bd front suspension kit is garbage and half the **** didnt fit andi had to keep sending pictures and explain to them that there products where designed wrong. The first time they sent me shocks for a different the buggy also. Its a tuff call but I got all my money back eventually and now im staying away from there shocks. There spindles and ball joints are basically a must on the yerf and like them a lot and havent had any problems. Also in my previous pics upgrades the arms with a thicker ball joint mount. Ive learned they yerf takes some $$ to get it really trail worthy but I picked it up for $125 bucks and its been worth every penny:-)

[xlint89]

I've been experimenting with ATV shocks.

I really like the Yamaha Moto 100 shocks for pavement. Just about stock length.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1987-Yamaha-...1583cc&vxp=mtr

They are too soft for off road use and adults though. They would be very good shocks for lighter kids.


I'm waiting to install the Yamaha Moto 250 shocks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Moto-...ebba1a&vxp=mtr

I think they will be pretty good. Not too stiff, but much stiffer than the 100 shocks. Also around stock length. Might be a good choice for an adult driven Yerf.


Hard to tell length in pics, so Email the sellers on Ebay. Most will get back to you with length.

[Masteryota]

I found that most of the sellers post the lengths, and if they don't, a google search normally yields an answer and reviews on how it rides. I personally am steering(pun?) clear of any used shocks, unless I know I can rebuild them.

Something to consider if you really want some good travel, is making a new upper shock mount. I saw a pic from a diff buggy site where he swapped in polaris front struts and made high upper mounts off the kart frame. Just thinking out loud.

[x-bird]

Did a little digging since the e-bay listing as the ones i bought were no longer viewable

These are the same ones---and good thing is that i now know what year/model they're off of so i can talk to fox about how the valving is set up and what the spring rate is because i want to make some changes in compression and rebound.

If you go atv/sled, ii recommend staying with Fox because of the rebuildable nature of them. Also see if you can get a seller assurance that the shafts are not bent or pitted, as that's the most expensive item to replace---been there, done that. (((


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Wedg...0ef16f&vxp=mtr

[jmansracerocket]

haven't posted in my own build in a while got some pics of my new items to install Kidnme shorty clutch, kidnme pulley, American sports work gas tank, and I still have to install my 1500rpm spring not in pic.

[Masteryota]

You got a P/N for that tank, I have been searching for a replacement tank for months. Oh, and a price, too?

[xlint89]

Yeah, that tank has me interested. Although I finally got a decent USED tank off Ebay for a great price. ($36 shipped)

Jman, if you wanted the shorty clutch, why didn't you buy my set up? It was Like New, and came with a rebuild kit with different strength springs for tuning, along with the 10g sliders, variator, and NCY yellow main spring for $150 shipped.

Oh well, keep us posted on how the pulley and clutch work out for you. Thanks

[jmansracerocket]

Dammit! Xlint I would have bought it I didnt realize u where even selling them! The gas tank is american sports works gas tank.

[xlint89]

Oh well.

How much did that fuel tank run you? Looks like a good one, except for that vacuum operated petcock.

Good luck with the install, keep us posted on your results please.

[jmansracerocket]

cant remember the exact price I think the total came to $90 shipped that's the tank, cap, and petcock

[jmansracerocket]

order reverse kit can't wait I need to stop buying **** and start installing stuff lol

[Masteryota]

I had a stroke of genius today, or maybe just a stroke, but I want to explore the idea of using an electric reverse like the Honda goldwing does, it has a limited use time, but it is effective.

I too want to see some results, I am getting tired of only working on the Yerf once a week, and most times its only for about 4-5 hours. Patience my young padawon.

[jmansracerocket]

lol yeah im getting all the parts stocked up in my garage but they aren't installed, but I got vacation time coming up hopefully decent weather will come

[xlint89]

Originally Posted by Masteryota

I had a stroke of genius today, or maybe just a stroke, but I want to explore the idea of using an electric reverse like the Honda goldwing does, it has a limited use time, but it is effective.

I too want to see some results, I am getting tired of only working on the Yerf once a week, and most times its only for about 4-5 hours. Patience my young padawon.

How does that work?

I'm kinda leaning towards the idea of electric reverse. I seen a pic of once. It was a Chevy starter and ring gear set up.

[Masteryota]

The goldwing uses a similar design, of course with lots of safety features included. I was thinking I could use a small 12v motor, possibly a starter, to engage either the idler sprocket for the chain off the jackshaft, or somehow engage the jackshaft itself. Of course I would need a much bigger battery than the Yerf came with, which I had planned on doing anyways. The thought of using a big starter is a bit off putting though, as they spin stupid fast, unless you have some giant gear for it to mate with, even with a big flywheel/flexplate on the original engine, it still will spin that engine around 400-500 RPM, thats a bit too fast to be backing out of a trail in a buggy even if you were to use a gear the same size, lol.

[x-bird]

electric starter for reverse has been done. I think there's a thread or two about it on the various forums if not here. best shot at doing it without too much bulk is to go with an automotive high-torque mini starter and put a bigger gear on the jackshaft for it to engage into. most of those have a mounting boss around hte nose gear that rotates 90 degrees or more with a variety of holes to index the mounts with. the nose area is also typically full open and not half enclose by the case /shaft support like a stock-style car starter. I crank my 464 with one that "lives" about 1/2 inch from a nest of 2-inch primary head pipes and no heat shielding--been in there for years without any problems.

[jmansracerocket]

my build will be coming back to life starting this weekend il keep u guys guessing lol pics will be posted of the progress

[jmansracerocket]

ok spent a lot of time on modding little things heres some pics

1.
cleaned and lube chained and fixed adjustment on it.

2.
I used 2 washers instead of one on the rear hubs because the castle nut was to loose for my liking and would cause the rear tires to be wobbly with these 2 washers it made it a perfect fit

pic of it on the hub and yes I was able to get the cotter pin in there

3.Gas tank installed


cut the one bar out and used it to make brackets and welded them in



4. just did a little extra welding on that front brace


5. New rear shocks are in and we cut the mounts off and welded them further up the frame to accommodate for the longer travel and man I love these new shocks! much better ride

[jmansracerocket]

with the brackets welded further up it gives the buggy a really nice stance




since installing this fuel tank with this vacuum petcock I don't like it and it wont start now and its getting fuel so I ordered a straight on/off petcock because I had to cut into a vacuum hose and I believe that's causing it not to start.





overall im very happy with how everything came out and I cant wait to get the new petcock

[x-bird]

Looking good. Just remember to flip your shocks to right side up. takes a little more unsprung weight off the swingarm and protects the seals better.

[sleepyrz]

hows top speed now that youve installed the kidnme parts?

completely stock my yerf 3209 is hitting 28........

also if you have a link to where you got your rear tires/rims i would like to know