My Spiderbox

[TheFauxFox]

This is going to be the thread that tracks my Spiderbox's progress from "meh" to "trail worthy".

The REAL bulk of this thread is most likely going to begin in January as I don't have enough money now, but I do have a few pics of the kart as it is (for now).







Just got lights installed, and I'm gonna wire them up sometime next week as I want to get a battery box before I start making "permanent" wiring paths...

[toomanytoys2]

Nice looking buggy, doesn't look like it has seen a hard life. Do you have a plan of attack for what you want the end result to be? My best advice would be " I want my Yerf to go fast over bumps, or I want it to climb these hills, or I want it to do this"? Each goal can have a different way of getting there. On this site there is a wealth of Yerf knowledge, and each build is a little different. If you have a goal in mind, and do some research, you can avoid spending $$ on things that you may not end up using in the end (Not that I have ever done that ).

[TheFauxFox]

toomanytoys2, you seem to be the only person on this forum (other than davcruz) that has told me something like that. Every single other person was telling me how I'm going to want more speed (I don't. 30mph is plenty for a trail) and I'm going to need this and that done, and in reality, I only need to ride on mainly smooth dirt packed trails. Maybe some gravel, but I'm not going rock crawling!

It doesn't seem to have had a "hard life", but it was never maintained (frame wise). It was just kept under cover and used. So theres a little front end rust, but all the parts are still original. The previous owner was the second one and he said the kart is from the early 2000s, so you can imagine what great condition my ball joints are in... Actually, you don't have to imagine, I have pics of them on one of my threads where I was "bragging" about my new ride... So I have over $300 worth of reinforcements to add!

On another note, here's the tail-light!



I just disassembled the one working stock headlight I had (^_^) and I painted the bulb red. It certainly doesn't look like it's MADE for the task, but it definitely does it! So my lights are ready to rock and roll!

[SYCARMS]

Toomanytoys2 said it perfectly. Most who get these buggies just want better performance but don't totally understand just what performance they want and where they want it. A good example is most will start with CVT mods since they are the cheapest but don't realize that when they eventually start the engine mods the CVT mods many times become moot and need retuning. CVT or electrical does not make more power. What I would suggest is to do all your repairs on the chassis first and drive the buggy. By driving the buggy you will learn the weak points of the engine, and everyone will have a different opinion on this simply due to the type of riding and terrain. I can tell you right now your engine is under powered simply due to it being a scooter designed engine which a scooter is half the weight of your buggy and has a fraction of the driveline your buggy has. The CVT mod will only change your shift points but will not produce any more power. You may not want to go faster but may want better acceleration to keep up with the 4 wheeler while driving the trails. Let me be clear for if that 4 wheeler shifts up into 3rd or 4th gear there is no way to keep up with them cause you only have a 150cc. Most of the trails I have driven on I have had no problems keeping up with the 4 wheelers since they too will usually top out around30mph unless on a long strait stretch so they will gain but when they get into the curves they have to let off the throttle where you are able to stay in it longer therefore catching up to them. Moderate engine mods are all that is needed to accomplish this. But you will need to drive it with others to access your needs. The next step is budget, and I'll say this that there are two ways to accomplish what you want. One is the cheap route which is the most expensive and the second is the correct way which may be more initially but much cheaper in the long run both in time and money and although some will disagree with me time is money. In fact time is more valuable then money for money can always be made but time cannot. You run out of money you just make more but you run out of time that is it.

[TheFauxFox]

SYCARMS, interesting point of view. After driving the kart the whole mile (maybe?) that I did, it was on some pretty varied asphalt and gravel steep and flat, and it ran great, I'm also used to my electric scooter that tops out around 20, so you know how it goes...

And it's not like my parents want me any faster... "Hey mom, dad? Can I get a few parts for my CVT and get a new Racing CDI so I can go faster on that tight, skinny trail we have? It'll only cost $100!" Not gonna happen.

I just want to get the frame in "trail worthy" condition before I even THINK about touching that engine.

[TheFauxFox]

So I took off the seats to get a good look at the frame, and one thing led to another...





Also noticed the when I purchased this kart from the second owner, he gave me parts that the first owner bought. These included... upper and lower uneven a-arms with SHOT ball joints. I think the first owner dind't know how to get em off and bought entirely new a arms! And he also gave me 2 first gen spindles. I also just noticed that I have one 1st gen spindle on and one 2nd gen... So obviously one of these was bent/snapped...

[TheFauxFox]

Just painted the roll-cage using this as the paint and this as the primer. I sanded with 60 grit paper and it looks great! 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of paint with a lil bit o shellac over it.

Sorry for the grainy pics as my ipod touch's camera is a whopping 1.3megapixels. and it was low light









My next little project with my "spending money" is some bed liner for the floor and a battery/ammo box for the battery and get some connections wired/re-wired with some new shrink wrap. I cant ride it till march 31 (as per federal regulations on the whissenhunt trail system) so I might as well do some quick things to pretty it up before I get into some frame stuff. Any recommendations on inexpensive bed liner? I have my eye on some roll on stuff for $23 from Amazon... It got good reviews, but rolling it on is hard work!

Just curious if there's a good spray on for a decent price. I know rust oleum makes a spray on bed "protector" that everyone seems to liken to textured paint, so I'm not too sure about that. I think I'll go with the stuff on Amazon (Herculiner if you want to look it up)

Here are some prep pics I just added:


^ before sanding, shows some rust and some bare metal. Looked OK from a distance


^ during my priming coat. when i painted, i took the roll cage stuff and hung it under my porch stairs to dry and do some touch ups.

[SYCARMS]

Check AutoZone as well as Wal-Mart. I purchased a quart from Auto Zone for around 25.00 then noticed my Wal-Mart had the same stuff for 5.00 less.

[TheFauxFox]

Yeah, I went to Walmart first, then Home Depot, and I bought the primer from walmart (found out it was the same price at HD, but whatever) and I got the "professional paint" from HomeDepot as Walmart didn't carry it. I'll make sure to check out an AutoZone, I think I have one right up the street from me. I just checked on the finish now, and it seems where I've done my touchups (with some acrylic paint last night) it's still wet! Granted, the kart is sitting under the porch and it's raining, so its really humid. I'll just have to wait for the finish to dry. I'll keep on the lookout for bedliners and when I apply it, I'll let you guys know how it went!

Note: Just got a key switch, and I will be ordering some plastic tonight so I can make a little "hood" and a console for my spidey and get some good, heat shrunk connections set up.

[jmansracerocket]

Keep up the good work, upgrade the tires, ball joints, control arms, spindles, and u will be set for trails all day long.

[TheFauxFox]

Jman, my plans are get some new joints, replace that one 1st gen spindle on my kart, and replace the rack (it's super messed up). Then of course do some cosmetic stuff and add reverse and I'm looking on CL for some new tires. If I can find them for a fair price, why not get some second hand ones? As long as they aren't super worn down, it'll save me some $$$ and I like that!

[jmansracerocket]

If ur changing the steering rack buy the one from bd with the extra teeth u won't regret it, the stock rack is horrible it takes way to wide of a turn with the one from bd it was like night and day.

[TheFauxFox]

I see they have this http://www.buggy-depot.com/store/ind...roducts_id=115

(remove the - between buggy and depot)

It doesn't say anything about extra teeth? Although I agree, I would love that, but my dad doesn't want me grinding away at my steering rack.

[jmansracerocket]

I would call them they use to have it right on the front page and I tried cutting extra by hand and it didn't work well and bd gets the steering rack machince cut so its nice and smooth

[TheFauxFox]

I have heard good things from the McMaster-Carr ball joints (here) (scroll down till you get to Heavy Duty inline ball linkages) and I was wondering what size to get. I understand that they are not/are not as good as the BD joints, but I want something that is one step up from the POS that YD has, but I don't need/want to spend $99 on BJs (snicker snicker).

What size would I need?

Thanks in advance!

[x-bird]

i think they're too small and not really made of the application you're using them for. those are more for lever/rod linkage systems.

[TheFauxFox]

Here's someone that used 3/8in and has some good things to say!\

http://www.buggy-depot.com/archives/...?showtopic=887
(remove the - between buggy and depot)

[TheFauxFox]

Not exactly "trail worthy" improvements, but they look nice.

This is the hood I made. I know it doesn't fully fill up the middle, but I think it looks pretty good. I'm going to get some more plastic for the left and right sides soon, but for now, here it is.



And here is the front of a little "console" I'm making and installing next to the steering wheel.


Rear/side view


A look at the two connections



I cut up some plastic I wasn't using, and melted it to the two parts so it would take some strain off my little L supports I made



This pic shows how everything was put together before the plastic was melted



And the hood covers the back and top of the little console thingy so I'm good for water/mud protection there! Plus I'm heatshrinking all of my connections. Last thing I need is something coming loose or shorting on the trails!


The key switch will replace the on/off flip switch on the steering wheel, and the toggle switch next to it will control the lights. As for the push button on the side of the steering wheel, that will stay the same, but I'm not sure of what I'm going to do with the small, green flip switch on the wheel (I WILL DO SOMETHING WITH IT!!! )

Edit: I re-did the hood, and I'm going to straighten out the right side when the dremel recharges...

[TheFauxFox]

Hooray for more upgrades that do nothing for trail-worthiness!

Since getting my rip-stop nylon in, I've been quite busy, so today I finally got to work and started measuring and cutting. After a TON of dry fitting, I finally cut some small holes, and put some grommets in.



After a little bit of finagling, I got it zip tied to the roll cage.







I also mounted my ammo/battery box (link) on the rear rack. Oddly enough, I never took a pic of the ENTIRE setup and how it looks, but I have pics of small details (plus you can catch a few glimpses of it in the other pics).

Here it is with the battery in place with the connections all wired up (lol only 4 wires).



Hole drilled for the wires to enter/leave



Here is how I mounted it (6 holes and 3 zip ties. Can you tell that I like zip ties?

So there you have it! Up next will probably be the ball joints and/or the steering rack. Until then, it seems, I must stick with the small, free projects that points2shop funds me for (I was gonna link my thread about points2shop, but it seems BM deleted it )

[jmansracerocket]

I like the roof where did u get that material ?

[SYCARMS]

Looking good.

[TheFauxFox]

Thanks! There is a little bit of hangover on the opposite side so I will go and trim It tomorrow.
I got the nylon rip stop from Amazon. Just some generic stuff. The company was supposed to ship me 1 square yard of it, but it seems I got 2, which was a godsend because I barely had enough! The grommets were 3/8in ones I got from Michaels. I also learned that when working with nylon, if you try to pull out that little string hanging off the side, you will ruin the entire...freaking...sheet. And, to prevent said event from occurring again, you should "heat treat" the edge of the fabric. Just run a lighter up and down the edges until they solidify a bit. I also learned (after i cut it) that you can cut this stuff with a soldering iron, so it gets heat treated AND cut in one process. Ah. The good 'ol Internet.

[TheFauxFox]

Today, I finally finished all the nitty gritty stuff (I hope). My little "dashboard" is all set up with some zip ties and JB Weld, my roof is solidly put on, I have my battery box installed, and lights all wired up.

Here's a pic of my starter switch and its connections. I just wrapped the wire around the terminal, heat shrunk it, and since the heat shrink was a tiny bit large, I hot glued it. Overkill? I think not!


This is how the whole kart looks now. Essentially, all I did today was wire up the lights and starter and get the dash installed, but it felt like it took a lifetime (especially outside in the 25 degree cold).



Side view



Rear view



Another battery box detail



The dashboard (will probably modify soon, but I think it looks pretty good now)



These headlights ARE NOT as bright as they look. It was daylight outside, and my camera auto adjusted and made them look really bright. I think that they will be good if I am driving off to/from a campsite or something and I get stuck as the sun sets...but, they were about $20 for the set, so who's complaining?



Dash detail



I worked pretty hard on this stuff, so I'm a little pooped right now. Although I love how it all looks, but now it's time to start saving my money for the real stuff I need (ball joints, steering rack, new, non leaky tires, and some new front rims/wheel hubs. Oh! And some new spindles). I have a spare set of A-Arms the old owner gave me, and I have an angle grinder, so I'm going to grind off the suspension mounts of the bottom a-arms and use them as tops. It gives me an excuse to get new, reinforced spindles, plus it'll keep me busy!

Anyway...if anyone wants links to any of the materials just ask. It's not hard to find.

'Later!

[TheFauxFox]

I got the reverse!!!! Wooppeeee!!!



I have the gearbox, bracket, and driveshaft. I know I need a cable and shift lever. Anyone know the dimensions/anything else I need?

[toomanytoys2]

That my friend, will be worth its weight in gold, once you get it setup.

[x-bird]

I see ONE thing that's going to drive you nuts obtaining. looks to be missing its end cap for the cable. you will need that part. PO may have it dangling onthe end of their broken cable. It's worth trying to chase down. I believe soapkart posted some pics in his thread of one he fabbed up. I just made one for the reverse i sold to subsea, realized at the last minute it's ID wasn't wide enough for the cable retaining clip and gave him the one off my Sym engine.

[mikesova@gmail.com]

Your priorities are kind of messed up. The ball joints probably should have been the first thing you purchased, if actually using the kart is something you are interested in.

[toomanytoys2]

Originally Posted by mikesova@gmail.com

Your priorities are kind of messed up. The ball joints probably should have been the first thing you purchased, if actually using the kart is something you are interested in.

I wouldn't say that per say. One of the major advantages of having a reverse, is that you don't have to power through a really rough section just to keep going. Instead, you can say "Oh Poop", hit the brakes, backup and go around. Thus in the long run, you can actually save wear and tear on the BJs. Also, you really won't find any deals on BJs, their price is pretty much static. However, if a reverse deal falls in your lap - jump on it.

[mikesova@gmail.com]

Well, his are trashed and I was under the impression that bad ball joints were dangerous and led to the lawsuits that put yerf dog out of business.

[SYCARMS]

Sams Club (WalMart) put Yerfdog out of business and not lawsuits.

[zman007007]

how did sams club put them out? just curious.

[jmansracerocket]

I bought my original yerf back in the day from sams club

[SYCARMS]

Yerf dog was made in America. The company for which I don't remember also made the American Flyer wagons most of us older members had when we were kids. This is how it was told to me.Once the contract was signed with Wal-Mart Corp to supply the buggies they made large capital improvements to their Mississippi factory in order to supply the greater number of buggies. About a year or so later Wal-Mart Corp mandated that they bring the price of the buggy down with promise of increasing the orders. Since Yerf was extended on their credit line due to capital improvements so as to supply Wal-Mart Corp, they contracted with a factory in China to completely build the buggy for a much cheaper price. When Wal-Mart Corp started having problems with returned buggies due to ball joint and axle breakage they refused payment to Yerf dog for the remaining buggies ordered. This is how I was told it worked. Yerf dog through a line of credit would secure the 50% to have the buggies made with the remaining 50% due when they reached customs, at this point Wal-Mart Corp would pay Yerf the 50% needed to get them out of customs and into their stores with the other half paid to yerf as the buggies sold. All warranty was covered by yerf dog and if a buggy was returned for any reason to Sam's it would be shipped back to yerf at their expense and that buggy would be deducted from Sam's balance. When so many of the cheaper made buggies started coming back with broken ball joints and rear axles Wal-Mart fired Yerf leaving them with all the buggies they had in stock for they returned them as well as the many containers already on their way to customs Wal Mart Corp refused acceptance. Since they were already too extended on credit the Banks put them into chapter 7 and liquidated the company. Wal-Mart Corp is well known for these practices which is why most all the American companies if they wanted to keep the Wal-Mart account would move factories and jobs to China. As one CEO once told me in business class " Wal-Mart is like cocaine for when they first sign you the feeling is great for you make more money than you can imagine but once you are hooked on them they than basically dictate price to you. I forget what State it was but Rubbermaid went through the same thing except their new supersized factory built to handle Wal-Mart Corp orders was built with taxpayer money with the promise of creating many more jobs. Then Wal-Mart Corp starts to dictate what price they are willing to pay and Rubbermaid had done the only thing they could do which was to stick the taxpayers and move their operation to China. Yerf did not have that option.

[Masteryota]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

Yerf dog was made in America. The company for which I don't remember also made the American Flyer wagons most of us older members had when we were kids. This is how it was told to me.Once the contract was signed with Wal-Mart Corp to supply the buggies they made large capital improvements to their Mississippi factory in order to supply the greater number of buggies. About a year or so later Wal-Mart Corp mandated that they bring the price of the buggy down with promise of increasing the orders. Since Yerf was extended on their credit line due to capital improvements so as to supply Wal-Mart Corp, they contracted with a factory in China to completely build the buggy for a much cheaper price. When Wal-Mart Corp started having problems with returned buggies due to ball joint and axle breakage they refused payment to Yerf dog for the remaining buggies ordered. This is how I was told it worked. Yerf dog through a line of credit would secure the 50% to have the buggies made with the remaining 50% due when they reached customs, at this point Wal-Mart Corp would pay Yerf the 50% needed to get them out of customs and into their stores with the other half paid to yerf as the buggies sold. All warranty was covered by yerf dog and if a buggy was returned for any reason to Sam's it would be shipped back to yerf at their expense and that buggy would be deducted from Sam's balance. When so many of the cheaper made buggies started coming back with broken ball joints and rear axles Wal-Mart fired Yerf leaving them with all the buggies they had in stock for they returned them as well as the many containers already on their way to customs Wal Mart Corp refused acceptance. Since they were already too extended on credit the Banks put them into chapter 7 and liquidated the company. Wal-Mart Corp is well known for these practices which is why most all the American companies if they wanted to keep the Wal-Mart account would move factories and jobs to China. As one CEO once told me in business class " Wal-Mart is like cocaine for when they first sign you the feeling is great for you make more money than you can imagine but once you are hooked on them they than basically dictate price to you. I forget what State it was but Rubbermaid went through the same thing except their new supersized factory built to handle Wal-Mart Corp orders was built with taxpayer money with the promise of creating many more jobs. Then Wal-Mart Corp starts to dictate what price they are willing to pay and Rubbermaid had done the only thing they could do which was to stick the taxpayers and move their operation to China. Yerf did not have that option.

I feel this gets asked too many times, and since there is not enough info on the net about them going under, this should be a sticky. Anyone who has a 150cc should see this as an example and know why yerf has their shortcomings, rather than beat down an already battered name.

[x-bird]

original company was Flexible Flyer, same one as the great old american sled.

[SYCARMS]

Originally Posted by x-bird

original company was Flexible Flyer, same one as the great old american sled.

Thank you, it was late and the name would not come to me. What everyone has to remember is the Yerf Dog was designed for the much younger kids but when us older kids caught on we put a whole lot more abuse on the buggy. The original ones that were entirely made in the USA with control of the process also had their issues but nowhere as bad as the later when they were totally sourced to China. I have one of the early Yerf's and hated it for one reason, they had no suspension, you needed a football field to turn around, and they had no reverse. The positive is they had reliable engines, were light and were quick.

[TheFauxFox]

My priorities are a bit...off. My small projects were free (thanks points2shop) so that wasn't like I was wasting money, and come on, who WOULDN'T pass up a reverse kit for 70 bucks? Granted I have to get the handle, cable, and I DID notice that little end cap I have to get (probably 30 bucks total) but it's still a deal and a half). And yes, the ball joints really ARE in that bad condition, but I'm in no rush as there are still about 3 months left until I can ride. I'm earning allowance (lol) and I plan on trying to get a job soon (good luck to me...lol) but I have almost enough for it. The joints are DEFINITELY my next thing in mind.

[SYCARMS]

Your doing fine. It is hard to realize a dream with no source of income. Thank God for allowance. Wish you luck in getting a job. With the right attitude and hard work you will find one. When anything comes easy you tend to loose appreciation for it but when you have to work and budget for it you will appreciate what you have more. Don't give up and keep pushing ahead.

[TheFauxFox]

Thanks, SYCARMS! After the holidays and my birthday, I have some cash, so I spent most of it on the reverse, but I'm just a little bit shy of the ball joints. But before I put those on, I want to see if I can cut those suspension mounts of the spare a-arms I have and get some even spindles and a-arms (so I can finally get some new, even, reinforced spindles). And with our vice mounted on a wood cabinet indoors...in a smaller, unfinished section of the basement (wood studs exposed) with cardboard boxes all around, I can't exactly use it indoors... So now I have to see where to relocate the vice...LOL. A ton of this stuff just takes time and coordination to start. Anyway... I think I'm going to enjoy my snowless snow day now.

LOL. School cancelled because the low last night was 4.

Ah...the south. Gotta love it!

[TheFauxFox]

On another note...

I can't find the cable needed for my reverse kit for less than the RIDICULOUS price of $38 from BD. It makes no sense that a braided cable costs more than a lever mount (piece of metal shaped and welded in a certain way).

Anyone know where to get it for a NORMAL price?

And also... I called BD and asked about the extra tooth steering rack, and the person who I spoke with (Sonia[?]) had them put it back on the site! Hooray!

[jmansracerocket]

The steering rack upgrade is basically a must if u ask me

[SYCARMS]

Originally Posted by TheFauxFox

On another note...

I can't find the cable needed for my reverse kit for less than the RIDICULOUS price of $38 from BD. It makes no sense that a braided cable costs more than a lever mount (piece of metal shaped and welded in a certain way).

Anyone know where to get it for a NORMAL price?

And also... I called BD and asked about the extra tooth steering rack, and the person who I spoke with (Sonia[?]) had them put it back on the site! Hooray!

The steel cables are cheaper then the stainless cable, the stainless cable will last 3 times the steel. There are 3 different type reverse boxes out there and each uses a different cable. The difference is how it attaches to the rev box. Some use the adjuster sleeve and some don't.

[Dirtroad]

How do you know your ball joints are bad?

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by Dirtroad

How do you know your ball joints are bad?

Besides the little booties being shredded (not really sure if they really matter) EVERY SINGLE BALL JOIN has at least 2 large cracks in it. Some I can get my fingernail in through. Btw I'm talking about the tops. But yea... I think it's time

[Dirtroad]

Can you get a picture of them?

[zman007007]

Boots are just for protection, you can tear a boot on a root or something similar the first time you ride it. The way to tell wear in a way is to jack up the front and grasp the tire by top and bottom to check play up and down, then grasp tires at the right side and left side and move by and forth slowly to check for wear there. When moving the tire it should have very little movement at the tire and the ball joint.

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by zman007007

Boots are just for protection, you can tear a boot on a root or something similar the first time you ride it. The way to tell wear in a way is to jack up the front and grasp the tire by top and bottom to check play up and down, then grasp tires at the right side and left side and move by and forth slowly to check for wear there. When moving the tire it should have very little movement at the tire and the ball joint.

That's what I thought, I'll go check that sometime soon, I have a lot of school work coming up, so sadly less buggy time tinkering

If anyone with electrical knowledge could help me with my starter switch issue (under the electrical section) that would be wonderful. I don't know if I'm just overloading my switch, or if there's something up with my connections...

thnx

[Dirtroad]

Originally Posted by zman007007

Boots are just for protection, you can tear a boot on a root or something similar the first time you ride it. The way to tell wear in a way is to jack up the front and grasp the tire by top and bottom to check play up and down, then grasp tires at the right side and left side and move by and forth slowly to check for wear there. When moving the tire it should have very little movement at the tire and the ball joint.

That is how you check ball joints on a car, not sure it translates well with buggys.

On a car if you grab the tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and push/pull, if you have movement check ball joints.

If you do the same at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock check tie rods.

If you have movement doing both check wheel bearing.

[SYCARMS]

Ball joints are checked the same way as a car. You want to check the radial and axle movements for wear. I will say that anymore then a 1/8" play is bad. Cars and trucks in general will allow more play 1/4" due to the preloaded weight on the joints. The buggy has no preload weight so 1/8" seems reasonable.

[zman007007]

guess I should have said while watching the ball joint and tie rod at the same time, and not the center of the hub. if it is moving at the center of the hub then you know it is bearings.

[TheFauxFox]

Alright, so my key switch problem is fixed. The odd thing is, when the key is in the "red" position, that actually is where I need it to start, and when I have it sideways in the green position, that's the kill. So it's a little bit different than something else, but I'll get used to it. And I also checked the joints. Grabbing at 12 and 6 yielded AT LEAST that 1/8 inch SYCARMS was talking about, and at 9 and 3 there was nothing. So I guess I still need them?

Here's the vid: http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/RM...tml?sort=3&o=0

[zman007007]

I don"t think you need them for a 1/8" of play. if it was a top fuel dragster maybe, but one of these buggies no. LOL and I couldn"t get your video to work it said some kind of error.

[zman007007]

If I was you I would be riding this bad boy instead of trying to change it so much, till I had to, such as something breaking.

[2SlickNick]

Video no good Jose.

[TheFauxFox]

Fixed the video, and zman, I'd love to ride, but with the backyard off limits (and not good for anything but circles) and the back trail too narrow at the moment, and the public trails closed for another few months, I can't. that's why I'm doing all this stuff now. This kart isn't gonna be (trail) ridden for a little while
And my dad kinda has the same mentality, drive it till it breaks something. I just prefer to eliminate problems before they originate. That's just me. ^_^

Obviously if I don't have the money to buy this stuff now, I can't do that, anyway, but for now it works nicely. I would just like to get some new/used non leaky tires on the front, and at that rate, let's get some knobbies that are bigger, bigger needs new rims, new rims need hubs. See? I still need to earn a bit more. Maybe I should slip some fliers for cruises into my neighbor's mailbox so he can go away for a while and I can petsit his cat

That guy is pretty much my main source of income. LOL.

So right now, I'm looking at getting:

New rack (extra teeth) $149
HD Ball joints (up in the air) $99
Front rims/tires/hubs $140

And as of now, I've only got about $100... so I'm a little bit stuck up a tree. I just have to wait. All in due time....all in due time...

[TheFauxFox]

On a separate note, I would NOT suggest getting nylon rip-stop and using it for a roof. The ends fray, even after heat-treated with a lighter... So I think I'll pick up some canvas material (like the stuff that covers lawn chairs) and use that instead. I've got an Amazon gift card on my bday so I think I'll spend a little

[zman007007]

well I am glad to hear you are willing too work for what you get. it makes it more special that way and you will appreciate it more. Too bad you live too far away, there is always something to do around here I would be willing to pay someone to help them.

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by zman007007

well I am glad to hear you are willing too work for what you get. it makes it more special that way and you will appreciate it more. Too bad you live too far away, there is always something to do around here I would be willing to pay someone to help them.

It is a shame... although technically now that I'm 14 I can hold a job here in Ga! Although, it seems the only company that hires 14 year olds is Publix, and I do have one about a mile from my house (I can ride my Super Turbo 800 scooter there) I don't think I'd be able to juggle that and school. And that's assuming I actually get hired. It's not like I can just waltz right in and pick up a job.

I'm very willing to work for what I get. Most of my "big ticket" items I've purchased over the years were from my own work. My mac mini (got it 2 weeks ago, LOVE IT) my old PSP, my iPod touch. So yea, I'm no slouch. Although all that money came from my allowance, and since my job is to mow the lawn, doesn't quite pay very well in the winter XD
Anywho... If someone could check out the vid and give me their opinion on the joints, that would be appreciated.

[SYCARMS]

From what I see in your video is not a worn ball joint , but the ball joint moving in the top control arm where it should not. Let me try to explain the ball joint to you and what to look for. The ball joint is made up of 2 parts. The body which is held in the control arm by means of either press fit, screwed in, snug fit with retainer to secure, or sometimes welded if incorporated in the arm as a one piece design. This part is known as the joint or body. The stud that goes through the steering knuckle is known as the ball. The stud end has a ball at the opposite end in which the body is molded or pressed around, imagine an knee or elbow, same theory. What you look for in a worn out ball joint is the play between the ball(stud) and joint(body). The play you showed in the video is the body loose in the control arm which is not normal. You will need to find the reason of it being loose. Since I have not messed with many yerf ball joints and are not currently in front of one to see maybe someone who has replaced them can chime in to explain as to how they are fastened to the control arm. You will need to correct this problem before you can check the actual play in the ball joint it self. Once the body is secure in the control arm you will place a jack under the control arm at the very end so you will have to remove the tire. With it jacked up you will place your hands at the 12 and 6 positions. Lying on your back and looking at the top joint push the top in while pulling the bottom our then reverse the motion just as you did in the video. You will be watching to see if the ball (stud) has any movement. Then do the same check to the bottom ball joint. Next you will want to put a hand under the bottom of the hub and push strait up watching for any play between the Ball (stud) and body( joint). Normally as the control arms move up and down the ball will roll in the joint. When you have play then the ball will slam into the joint with the amount determined by the amount of play. After time due to the slamming (taking up of play) the ball or joint deforms causing more play until either the stud breaks or the ball pulls out of the joint. Your outer tie rod will be checked in the same fashion except you can check without jacking the unit up. Checking the inner tie rod you would need to move the boot back and move the front of tire in and out just as if steering. Hope this helps give you a better understanding.

[TheFauxFox]

I'll do that later. I was thinking that the movement has nothing to do with the joints themselves, rather it's how well they are fastened to the a-arm. Again, I'll check that later and tell you what happens. I did the test off camera on the other side, and same thing. Only the top joint is moving, the bottom stayed firm... So should I try to tighten the castle nut on the bottom?

[SYCARMS]

You should check them but I don't think that is your problem.

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

You should check them but I don't think that is your problem.

Alright... I didn't check today, but do you think that the cracks could be from the ball slamming into the body?

[SYCARMS]

from what I saw in your video the ball joint is loose in the control arm, without actually looking at it I couldn't tell you if the crack caused the joint to loosen or if the loose joint caused the crack.

[TheFauxFox]

We know it's loose in the arm, but could I or could I not infer that from repeated impacts between the body and ball that it cracked the body? I'm going to do that check later today, but for now I'm assuming that's where they came from.

[SYCARMS]

I'm not looking at it so I would be nothing more than guessing. What I can tell you is you need to isolate as to why they are loose than repair it properly. If the ball joint body is cracked then they will need to be replaced. There are only 2 ways to do things, right way and wrong way. Do it the right way to begin with and you will be driving the buggy having fun which is I assume is why you bought it, or do it the wrong way and be constantly working on it wasting your time and money. It may take a bit longer to repair it the correct way but when done you will spend your time enjoying it. Look for a cheap route or cut corners you'll enjoy it very little cause you will be putting more money and time in it then driving time.

[Davcruz]

I could not agree more with the statement made by Sycarms. Spend the money, get the good parts, install them once and then have fun with the buggy, stop and add fuel when it is low. I have had nothing at all break or go wrong with ours since I put it together, my daughter uses it fairly hard and it has been beat by the grownup kids too. I just got it out of the shed to put sealant in a rear tire that picked up a nail (we are expecting snow and she wants to play with it in the snow). This buggy started right up, and drove around with no issues at all or fear of ball joints, etc. breaking and it had not been run for a week.

Do it right the first time and IMO I would not drive it with those ball joints, they absolutely should not move like that, period.

[TheFauxFox]

Dave, that's what I was thinking... I want to, but I'm just taking forever with my project because I can't fund it all right away

So I guess I do need the bjs... alrighty then. and SYCARMS, I bought this thing to have fun oh yea!!!

I'm just taking so long as I said because I can't fund it all right away. Trust me, I'm perfectly willing to wait a little longer and work a little harder to have a (nearly) maintenance free buggy.

[TheFauxFox]

Back on the reverse subject, I think I'm going to start the project soon, I just need to pickup a few things (oil, cable, shifter)... So, I examined this gearbox further and it seems as there isn't a place for the adjustment cap at the end of the cable. It just pops in. I have no idea what length of cable I need. BD's cable is 66" long, and the ones on eBay are 62", does BD give me some extra slack, or are they perfect? or does the extra 4" just not matter?

[SYCARMS]

You need to know what type reverse gear you have to get the proper cable to fit. Some of those reverse boxes out there take a different cable then what the average buggy uses. You might check with who you got the rev box from, they should have a cable or be able to tell you where to get one. Post a pic of the box showing where the cable goes.

[TheFauxFox]

By rev box do you mean the physical gear box? And it seems mine doesn't have the slide over bell, it just is popped in. So the q is, how much length do I need for my go kart, and is getting too long of a cord a bad thing?

[TheFauxFox]

pics in a few

[TheFauxFox]

the cable is covering up where the c-clip opens up to the left

[Davcruz]

Do you have the end piece that you can see in the picture I posted for you? The end piece attaches with 2 screws and it is what the 90 degree bend adjuster screws into. It should have been with the reverse.

[SYCARMS]

Exactly, you need the tower that the outer cable threads into. This is one of the cable adjustments. The length of cable will depend on which type shifter you will use as well as the placement of that shifter.

[TheFauxFox]

I don't seem to have the "tower" you were talking about (I was wondering about those two holes...) but I do have this:



Looks like it's a cable tensioner? Doesn't it? And nope, I don't have that part... ugh.

Today, I also got a cable and sleeving for it. It's a bike cable cut to about 6 ft in length, and the shop gave me sleeving to go with it. I'm sure threading it through is gonna be a blast... I also got some gear oil as when I replace the shaft I have to drain the oil...

Nevermind, just realized the piece in the picture is just supposed to be for the lever end of the cable. So anyone have an idea where I can get the piece to put on the gearbox?

[TheFauxFox]

Look at my "need reverse piece" thread to see pics of what I need, although I think I can fab it.

[SYCARMS]

I will call tomorrow to see the availability and cost for the tower.

[x-bird]

Originally Posted by TheFauxFox

I also got some gear oil as when I replace the shaft I have to drain the oil...

if you're referring to the reverse box, it takes grease, not oil. NM--got your meaning now (2 seconds after "submit")

[TheFauxFox]

lol x. yea I'm talking about the gearbox oil, so if I went to take off the final gear cover, and didn't drain the oil, will a bunch just come pouring out? And tbh I have no clue what hole the gear oil goes in... I see a spout type thing coming off the rear of the engine, is that for gears or the engine itself?

[SYCARMS]

There are 2 bolts with 10mm heads. One is on the very bottom and one is on the side. Bottom to drain and side to fill. Pull both plugs to drain. They can also be identified by either an aluminum or red color sealing washer under bolt. If you take your time pulling the final drive cover you can save the gasket. If you tear the gasket use a new one, do not use gasket maker for it will eventually leak and if not caught you will run the final drive empty or with inefficient lube.

[Davcruz]

Well, I used RTV when I reassembled...Guess I should order a gasket.

Real bummer with our Spiderbox on Sat. The girls where driving it in the snow and i noticed the front wheels were both pointing out...not good! I quickly found that the BD HD spindle had a crack through the top part that the TRE mounts to and it was bent out toward the wheel at a rather severe angle. I pulled it off to weld it back up but have not had time to do it yet.

[SYCARMS]

The only gasket maker I have found to work in place of a gasket is Right Stuff by permatex. This is used on many newer oem vehicles. It comes in either a small caulk tube or what I call a whip cream can. It runs around $15.00 and will make about 10 V8 valve cover gaskets. I use it on my buggy engines except for the case halves which need the gasket for it acts like a spacer. I had used it exclusively on my 6.5 diesel. 200,000 miles on it with no leaks.

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

There are 2 bolts with 10mm heads. One is on the very bottom and one is on the side. Bottom to drain and side to fill. Pull both plugs to drain. They can also be identified by either an aluminum or red color sealing washer under bolt. If you take your time pulling the final drive cover you can save the gasket. If you tear the gasket use a new one, do not use gasket maker for it will eventually leak and if not caught you will run the final drive empty or with inefficient lube.

Thanks for the helpful info, and I planned on picking up a gasket from BD anyway...

[Masteryota]

Originally Posted by Davcruz

Well, I used RTV when I reassembled...Guess I should order a gasket.

Real bummer with our Spiderbox on Sat. The girls where driving it in the snow and i noticed the front wheels were both pointing out...not good! I quickly found that the BD HD spindle had a crack through the top part that the TRE mounts to and it was bent out toward the wheel at a rather severe angle. I pulled it off to weld it back up but have not had time to do it yet.

I guess the BD stuff isn't as HD as they say....

I'm sure this will get buried, but toyota uses 2 types of sealer for engines and such. One is a black, oil resistant, aerobic sealer, which means it requires air to cure, also known as form in place gasket, or FIPG for short. This is used for engine and coolant sealing applications. The other, which is exclusively used on transmissions, transfer cases, and differential carriers, is orange, and it is an anaerobic sealer, meaning air does not make it set. This results in a highly flexible seal, that never really cures to a hardness, which is good for components susceptible to drastic temp changes and torque loads. Both of these sealers are the densest sealers I have ever used, and when applied properly, it will seal damn near anything. I'm not sure on the cost, but I'm sure it's around $20/tube over the counter, and rivals Hondabond and Yamabond sealers.

[SYCARMS]

The BD components are much more heavy duty then the stock, it's just that the yerf had such a poor design. The way I see it since I also have a yerf you either need to totally redesign the front suspension to totally solve the problem or install a custom shock made specifically for the yerf. That front suspension due to its lack of planning is just beating the hell out of the steering components. A shock made specifically for it will help control this problem. I have never used either sealer you speak of but the oem's usually have the good stuff. I mentioned the tough stuff by permatex since it was designed for the US oem's and is available at the major parts stores. The only thing it says it's not to be used for is gasoline but one year I did use some on my son's intake due to a cracked o-ring. It held for 2 years until we tore the engine down to put in the 8mm stroker crank.

[Davcruz]

I agree the BD stuff is fairly HD. This was just one of those things, the crack started right on the edge of where the arm was bent on the press. The arm on the other side is fine and shows no signs of damage or cracks.

I am sure BD would have warrantied the arm, but it was just easier for me to weld it than send it back and pay shipping. No big deal.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by Davcruz

I agree the BD stuff is fairly HD. This was just one of those things, the crack started right on the edge of where the arm was bent on the press. The arm on the other side is fine and shows no signs of damage or cracks.

I am sure BD would have warrantied the arm, but it was just easier for me to weld it than send it back and pay shipping. No big deal.

Thank goodness for welding skills.
Says me (The new welder).

[TheFauxFox]

STILL haven't gotten around to putting on the reverse yet

BUT I got some netting in the mail from amazon (3.99 later...)

I was all ready to drill holes in the buggy for mounting points, then I remembered that the roll bars have little itty bitty holes already in 'em, so I just popped the hooks in there, here's how it looks.



And yes, I took the roof off. The nylon was fraying JUST SITTING THERE and it was really doing nothing...

My current plans are get the reverse on, get new BJs, ride the hell outta this, then strip it down and start a summer project

but until then, let's just get through school

[TheFauxFox]

Just tested out my rack and all is fine, its just the mounting holes (luckily). However, I do need new tie rod ends and booties to cover the rack, so I'm ordering those. I earned some money babysitting last night and that also gave me enough to throw the HD ball joints in the shopping cart on BD! I'm gonna order in a few minutes, but I'm def. very happy!

Now, I have another $45 or so left over and here are my options that I'm looking at...

1) 4 point regular seat belts for 40
2) 4 point cam lock seat belts for 45

The 5 doesn't make that much of a difference for me (I'll have $45 left over after the BD purchase. LOL) but I was wondering what you guys recommend?

Cam:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jdm-Black-4-...e2d288&vxp=mtr

Regular:http://www.ebay.com/itm/331046616237...84.m1438.l2649

Edit: Alright. Just put the order in

[2SlickNick]

Hey Fox,
good for you....
Might I suggest these to save some $$$$
I welded togeter a special swing for my special needs son and used these......
http://m.ebay.com/itm/380787146932?txnId=463569960025
They work well. My only complaint is I should have ordered 5 point harness for him. But i will be buying more if these for both the buggy and go kart.

[TheFauxFox]

That blue belt you linked is the exact same as the "regular" belt I listed... The difference is the auction with the red belts I linked was for two of them... I saw $23 and my jaw DROPPED and then I realized that it was for 1 belt not two. I figure I'd like my passenger to have a decent seatbelt too

And IDK what you mean for the buggy and go-kart? I only have one...

[SYCARMS]

I personally would go with the 5 point belts. The difference is if you roll over the 5th point will keep your head from slamming the ground for they hold you down in the seat. But now you say I wear a helmet. The helmet protects the head but not the crushing of vertebrae. I'm a strong advocate of safety and feel that I can spend my money on safety equipment that possibly will never come into play, but I can always make more money whereas if I don't invest or invest as cheaply as possible to save money and it becomes a necessity the hospital bills will more then absorb the money saved with or without insurance and if one of those freak accidents happen leaving me disabled I may not be able to earn any more money. I have 5 point belts in every one of my buggies and they are DOT or SNELL rated which means more money just as my helmets are. Like I said I can always make more money but can't make new body parts. Well now you say I'm not going very fast so I don't have to spend that kind of money the cheap belts and helmet will be fine . Go to Youtube and search Polish Rollover.
Four years ago @ the Buggy Bash in Missouri. Vehicle 2006 Blade 250 XT, 4 point belts click latch. Speed under 15mph. When leaving for our drive we were running late and I had a seat belt problem so I was going to leave without the belt latching. My 15 year old son at the time held up the operation stating that we had to fix the belt first which did not make some happy since we were already 1 + hours late. They waited and I got it to work. While on the trail we had to detour around a fallen large bolder which was in the trail. As I went around the boulder my wider buggy struck a stump which caused the steering wheel to bump steer which I thought broke my thumb.(never wrap thumbs around wheel). My arm flew out of the buggy as the right side went up an incline causing the buggy to flip over on its left side. I was able to get my arm back in the buggy before flipping (I now have arm restraints in all by buggies). The previous 2 years 2 people received broken arms at the same location one was fairly minor compared to the other since she received compound breaks and a crushed elbow, which required several operations. When all was done my son 200+ pounds was lying on top of my right side which caused my head to slam the boulder thus cracking my DOT approved helmet and compressing the inner liner very thin. Neither of us were hurt except for I having a headache a few hours later. We found that my sons stock click type belt unclicked for some reason causing his whole weight to force my head into the boulder much harder than if he would have still been buckled. It was one of those things we were able to cut up about later in the camp. Look at the video, we were under 15mph when this all happened. What if I did not fix my belt or went without a helmet or got my arm back inside. Accidents happen in the freakiest ways and people get killed and maimed in the freakiest ways. When I go back and think about how that incident could have turned out then reflect on the times I topped speeds of 30mph as high as 50mph it scares me. I now use only SNELL rated helmets which may be a bit overkill since my DOT rated helmet done what it was suppose to do, but the seatbelts will be of top quality usually costing 130.00 per belt and now most definitely arm restraints. It all comes down to what value you put on your body and life. Me, I had a non traumatic experience to where other than a headache I was unharmed using the minimum protection at under 15mph and my Son was fine. The 2 of us accessed what we think we are worth and have concluded that we could never spend too much for safety equipment, for since I am not disabled I can always make more money for the other things I want to do in life.
The main message here is always wear at least a DOT approved helmet, quality seat belts and arm restraints. You may go through life never needing them but all it takes is one time to spoil the whole rest of your life.

[2SlickNick]

Originally Posted by TheFauxFox

That blue belt you linked is the exact same as the "regular" belt I listed... The difference is the auction with the red belts I linked was for two of them... I saw $23 and my jaw DROPPED and then I realized that it was for 1 belt not two. I figure I'd like my passenger to have a decent seatbelt too

And IDK what you mean for the buggy and go-kart? I only have one...

Oh... I didn't see PAir....
That us a good deal. I meant my buggy and go kart.

[TheFauxFox]

Well, I never knew 5 points really did make that difference. I really hate it when people just hop in and even though they might have a helmet on, have no seatbelt. Your story was a great example of what could happen with or without safety gear. How do arm restraints work? I'll look into some 5 pointers now...

[2SlickNick]

I just looked at a pic of arm restraints. Pretty smart. Never gave that any thought before.

[jmansracerocket]

save for better spindles stock ones bend so easily

[SYCARMS]

I realized the need for the 5 point when my son flipped his buggy 180 deg. His neck hurt for several days from a sprain. The 5th point which comes up between the legs actually hold your but in the seat. They are uncomfortable at first but after a while it becomes a feel of security. If worn properly you should not be able to move so you won't be able to turn to look back. You will need mirrors for backing up and such. The arm restraints come 2 ways, the cheaper way is a strap double looped where you wrap around the steering wheel then loop one loop through the other than put your wrists through the other loop. The reason I did not have them on the blade that day is they are known to fall off and get lost. I still have this type on 2 buggies but have started to replace with type that hook to the seat belt. They are more expensive but they are so much more comfortable and give better protection to the wrist.

[TheFauxFox]

Thanks for the great info. Just looked at those arm restraints, pretty ingenious! I'm not so sure if I'll go that far with it, but I am now actively looking at 5 pointers. I know I've heard elsewhere that picking up the "expired" race car seat belts was a good idea, and I know they're expired cuz they're like 3+ years old (I think its something like that) but they should still be fine for the buggy?

Edit: In good condition of course...I'm looking at belts that have barely been used and (granted it has 5 days left) the auction is starting at .99 I know it won't end anywhere near there (I think..) but I'll just watch them for now. I can't get belts until I get the ball joints in and the rack parts. And get the reverse wired up already... So until I know for a fact I won't need parts elsewhere, the current belts will just have to do...

[SYCARMS]

Yes they would be fine but the ones I have found cost as much as new RJC belts through JEGS. You can always go with the JR. Dragster belts, they are 2" wide like oem in cars and trucks. The important thing is not as much the belt but the latch. I have seen several Chinese knockoffs latch fail. Then you have to buy new ones. Latch link are the cheapest, camlock are the most.

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

Yes they would be fine but the ones I have found cost as much as new RJC belts through JEGS. You can always go with the JR. Dragster belts, they are 2" wide like oem in cars and trucks. The important thing is not as much the belt but the latch. I have seen several Chinese knockoffs latch fail. Then you have to buy new ones. Latch link are the cheapest, camlock are the most.

Well, from what I hear bout dirt getting in the cams I'll probably be looking at the latch/link system. I see some inexpensive used ones (out of date) on eBay but until I finish the front end and reverse work, no new belts.