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Mini Buggy General Discussion General Discussion forum for Mini Buggies. (American Sportworks, HammerHead, Carter, etc) |
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#1
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Yerf Dog GX150 (3206) Rebuild
Howdy, folks.
I picked up a (very) used Yerf Dog GX150 a year or so ago. It had engine issues, and a bent-up front end, but was still a blast to zip my kids around in. It had the turning radius of a broken dump truck, and increasingly frustrating engine issues. It became clear to me that I needed to invest some time and money to fix some things before it was reliable enough to use with any regularity. My kids love the thing. But if I'm honest, I not sure who loves it more. Them, or me. The excited cheers they let out as we tear down the trail is priceless. Anyways, the solution became obvious - Tear it down and rebuild it, upgrading nearly everything as I went! Not because I wanted to. Because the kids love it. Yeah, right. The kids. Anyways, here is the before picture: I'll post updates as I go. There are a bunch of these rebuilds out there, and the info people post is invaluable. I wanted to contribute. Cheers! |
#2
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I got the frame stripped down:
I did a lengthy pressure washing, moderate sanding, and removal all of the stickers and whatnot. I also replaced all of the bolts with new hardened steel locking washers/nuts. First few coats of pain on (Brushed Amber): I think I may go around with a welder and permanently tack the bits of the frame together. The new bolts are cranked way down, but I'd like a bit more rigidity in the frame. I order a tons of parts from BMI and BD. Most of them should be coming today. - few replacement bits such as chain guard, bushings, etc. - new front bulked - new a-arms (upper and lower) - stage three front/rear suspension (lift) - diamond plate body fenders - atv front hubs/wheels - HD ball joints - upgraded rack and pinion from BD - tie rod ends - HD spindles from BD I tried to get the HD a-arms from BD, but there are in stock. I figured I'd buy the OEM replacement ones from BMI, then have them reinforced by BD. In fact I'm also sending my new front end bulked to them as well for reinforcing. I don't have a welder in my garage yet, so I'll let them handle it for now. Once the a-arms and front end is back, I'll paint and install the front end. At that point it should start coming together. Now I'm shopping for an engine. I want something powerful, but like how the gy6 150cc feels. Maybe the bored out, 175 cc engine from BD is an option. It comes with various internal upgrades installed. Thoughts? Last edited by APW; 01-29-2017 at 08:42 AM. |
#3
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The 150cc that come on the spider box, are pretty easy to work on. (Youtube) there are plenty here that can help you with a bigger engine bore kit.
If you haven't replaced yet. The axle will break one day. The diamond plated fenders are nice. But the mounting for the fronts are less then perfect. You might need to fab up something different. They are fun to work on. Keeps me busy most of the year. . |
#4
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Welcome to the site.
Welding up support for the frame is a MUST!!!!! That small piece on the front that the front end attaches to..... It's known to break clean off. Here's a few things I did to beef my frame up. http://buggymasters.com/forum/showth...ight=spiderbox
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top.......... |
#5
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Going to be nice when you're finished. It seems Buggy Masters is the site for Yerf Dogs. Good bit of people here with knowledge about modifying these. I look forward to seeing your progress.
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2010 Carter Interceptor GTR 300 2010 Hammerhead 250 SS 2015 Kandi 49FM5 110cc 2015 Hammerhead GTS 250-SOLD 2008 Kazuma Coyote 150-SOLD |
#6
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Taking the right approach, but i have to ask, what might that be lurking in the background? looks like some rather evil fun on wheels in progress ...
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#7
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BTW, happy 1000th post Xlint!
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#8
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I got the Fenders installed tonight, pictures pending. It's the diamond plate set from BD. The fenders are really nice, but the mounting setup is rubbish (as suggested above).
The rear brackets don't line up, while the front contraption is nearly useless. No matter how much I adjust them, or tighten them, they don't line up and come loose if you push even slightly on them. In my opinion, rubbish. $0.02 |
#9
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Here a picture of some of the goodies that came in today:
Fenders are on! |
#10
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Thanks X.
APW, is that the extra teeth steering pinion? It's a much needed option on these poor turning radius buggies. If not, you can actually add a few more teeth with a little patience.
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top.......... |
#11
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Yep, that's the upgraded steering from BD.
Regarding the axle. Is there a better option? I'd really like to widen the back end. If I need to rework the swing arm, it may be a good opportunity to fit a bigger engine. I'm not against buying an atv 500cc or something. I want to do this thing up right. Last edited by APW; 01-28-2017 at 08:03 AM. |
#12
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Yes. BD has an upgrade. However, it's recommended 10" wheels. And it's setup with different bolt pattern. So if you already got new rims, might be a mute point.
As far as front fenders, I've got some pics on how I attached them. However, need a welder, or have some one do it. But when done, setup is pretty sweet. Works great. Back fenders not lined up? Mine came same way. Make sure you flip them over, any way you can. See if there is a match. I called BD. They said they must have had the pattern up side down. I sent them pics, of what I had. They more then willing to replace them. I just Re-drilled the holes. Just FYI. BD really good with customer service. Call them if any issues or questions. I've got thier heavy spindles also. They got bent on a roll over. Sent them pics. Next day new one in mail. No charge. I have thread "tks kids yerfdog updates". On there can see how fab up brackets to the spindles. "However"!!! Depending what size tires you running up front. Since mounted to spindle, fenders turn with the tires. Very nice, and cool looking. But there is a clearance issue could run into. If mounted to close to frame, will hit frame in full turn. So you need to adjust for that. Why I don't have upgraded steering. Way it is now, think will hit frame with any extra teeth. Note on front fenders. They only come with one mounting hole. Your going to need another hole, or contact point. To keep fender in place. That one hole is not enough, and will break at those points, without extra support. |
#13
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Also. Heads up on new shocks and bigger tires. It will raise the back end. And will put engine at more of angle. More then likely you will need adjust you float on carb. If after all together, and you get gas running out of carb, when not running. More likely need to adjust float.
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#14
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I have not yet committed to wheels/rims for the back end, so I'm going to look into that axle upgrade and the appropriate rims for it. Is it any wider? If I could add some distance between the back wheels, it would vastly help the stability.
I am going to pick up a mig welder this week. I think it's worth investing in. There are a few immediate needs for it. Cheers |
#15
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I'm not seeing the upgraded axle kit on BD. The normal axle listing links to it, but it returns a page not found.
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#16
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looking good apw, you came to the right place, tons of yerf dog owners here. While you have it apart do yourself a favor and reinforce the steel around the rear engine mount, and brace the rear lower end of the swing arm with a cross bar. I know you said you don't have a welder but there worth the $. If you have a yerf dog a welder right from the start will save you money and time.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
#17
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Agreed. I'm shopping for one now. Any recommendations? I'd prefer 110, but can install a 220 if needed.
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#18
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Quote:
I couldn't be happier with it, years ago I bought a harbor freight one, wasn't a fan of it. Decided to finally spend the little extra and get this Lincoln setup. I had used Lincoln a hand full of times before hand, and was always happy with that brand so that's what I got. Lowes usually throws those 10 percent coupons also out once and a while. I use a dedicated 20 amp outlet with it and works great. With this u wont need the 220 if you ask me.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
#19
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
#20
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the amount of money its going to cost you to ship your a-arms, and that bulk head to bd, you can use it towards the welder and always have it. Don't forget welding blanket, gloves, and flux core wire.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
#21
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Sounds good. I'm going to pick one up. I have zero welding experience. I'll be sure and mess around with it for a while before attempting anything on the buggy.
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#22
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A welder opens up a WORLD of possibilities..... not just with the Yerf, but every project out in the garage. If you aren't making roll cages and stuff where your life depends on it, it's pretty easy to learn.
Regarding the rear axle upgrade: I did mine a couple months ago following Ckau's info. The link is in my thread here on buggy masters. |
#23
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I got the front bulked installed tonight. Turns out the frame is a little bent. Not much, maybe an eight of an inch on one side. Just enough to need a little convincing.
I think I am going to weld every bolt connection thus far. Barring a catastrophic failure, I don't see a need to take anything apart again. I'd rather make the frame as rigid as possible. |
#24
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That's odd. I can't find the upgraded axle either. Looks like they changed thier website again. It's possible it slipped through, forgetting it. Not first time. There been a few times I've had to call and ask, I knew they had, but couldn't find. Or maybe they not selling anymore?
But yes, it's 2 inches wider. On each side, if I remember correctly. So 4 total. Yes, welder very handy tool. Didn't know my dad has had a small flux welder for years. Been going down to buddies shop for years using his. But his is a big dog welder. And is gas. It welds so much nicer. At least on the thicker metal. Yesterday tacked every together then went to his shop to put final beads on. Saved alot of time. |
#25
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Not sure what tools you have. But a 4 1\2 inch grinder is a must. With grinding disk, and cutting disk.
I got tired asking my buddy to barrow. Just bought a good used metabo 8.5 amp for $75.00 on ebay. A good grinder is a much. Especially if just starting out. |
#26
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I've got a pretty well stocked shop. I just don't have any metal-working hardware yet. That's going to change in about twenty minutes. Having my coffee, then off to Lowe's.
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#27
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This thing is looking great! I always enjoy seeing a old Yerf resurrected back to life. The original concept and design was excellent but they cheeped out on fabrication and hardware. Your doing a great job!
Too bad Godfrey didn't have the insight to see the potential. You will want that welder. There's an old joke saying a welder should of been included in the original sale. |
#28
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That didn't take long.
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#29
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I haven't been on BD's site in a while, so I'm not up to date.
However, they DID sell a heavy duty axle set up for the Yerf. I bought one and it bent with not too much time on it. (was really disappointed in that) So I re-installed my stock axles that I modified to try and help support the weak spot on the outer ends. I was E mailing back and forth with Travis (BD owner) and he came up with another axle set up he wanted to try out. Obviously it's not a plug and play axle set up. It's also not very light. (much heavier than stock) but it was geared towards modified engines putting out more power than stock. It uses different hubs so you'd need different bolt pattern rims to install. APW, you might be a good candidate for this conversion. Do you plan on boosting the engine HP at all? Or is that not in the cards?
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top.......... |
#30
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005S...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just ordered this. A friend of mine has one. For price it's not bad. Most time I don't have help to keep stuff in place while welding. Theven auto darKing is nice so you can use both hands so can keep stuff in place while tacking. Especially smaller pieces, and tight places where hard to get a support behind it. |
#31
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Xlint89 - I absolutely want to go with a bigger engine. I had thought about ordering the bored out 175cc from Buggy Depot, but even that seems a little small for what I envision. If they have a heavy duty axle concept, or a prototype they want test, I would absolutely be interested. I've certainly spent enough money with them lately. Ha.
My plan is to spend the time and money on this buggy to really build it into a long lasting, capable machine. |
#32
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__________________
Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
#33
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ckau or rarerat did a conversion to a much better azusa flexpruf axle. it's a good way to go. the golf cart rear axle housing setup i did also worked very well would definitely hold up to a lot more power. that was a really cheap upgrade since i pulled that out out of a salvage yard.
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#34
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Played around with the welder tonight. Man, it's harder than it looks to get a clean, presentable weld.
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#35
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Here's Ckau's axle conversion info:
http://buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2626 I did it a couple months ago - really impressed with it so far. |
#36
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Looks like u have the wire speed to fast, and ur moving across to fast, slow down the wire speed, and slow down the hand motion. If u have a piece of scrap, practice will help u greatly.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. Last edited by jmansracerocket; 01-29-2017 at 08:34 PM. |
#37
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Quote:
__________________
My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top.......... |
#38
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I just emailed BD, asking about the upgraded axle.
The stage three shocks are on backorder, so it gives me a little bit of time to plan it out. |
#39
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Quote:
Good work on the buggy. My granddaughter and I have been bringing a Spider Box back to life over the past few weeks, although not to the extent you have been. Great fun! |
#40
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Hi Danial,
I ordered the fenders from Buggy Depot: http://www.**********.com/product/50...-yerf-dog.html I think they are worth the money, seeing that I'm constantly pelted in the face with mud and rocks. Good luck on the Spiderbox project. I'd love to see some pictures. I've done some huge structural updates over the past week to the frame. The entire front end is welded up, adding a number of steel support bits. I'll post pictures once I get it cleaned up a bit. Cheers! |
#41
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Buggy update - I had a little bit of a paint debacle. I needed to weld up a bunch of structural stuff, which caused the finish to buckle all over the place. Rather than deal with it, I made the call to grind down the frames and start again. It was a horrible task, but the first coat of primer is on... finally!
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#42
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Second coat of primer on. My welds look awful, but that's because I didn't get to detailed with the grinder. I'm thinking I will fabricate some body panels anyways, which will hide most of them.
Hoping to get some color on it this week. |
#43
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Apw dont know if u saw my previous post, but from looking at the welds, u where moving to fast, and you had the wire speed to fast, i would have went over those welds again, on that bulkhead u made. You want a solid bead weld across that bulk head.
__________________
Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
#44
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The bulked is a new one I ordered from BMI.
The welds look pretty bad, but I went over them a second time with the wire speed way down and the motion much slower. It filled in the connection, but still looked bumpy. I ground a few of them down, and they looked better. I just got a little fed up with the process, seeing that my grinder couldn't reach the little nooks and crannies. My neighbor is a welder, so I may have him look at them. I just don't want to go over them too many times and weaken the metal. Thanks for the insight. Cheers |
#45
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Also - there is a solid weld bead across the top of the bulked, where it meets the frame. I got a little weld-happy and decided to keep practicing. That bulked is now part of the frame. I also did solid beads on the 3/8 plates added to the a-arm holes.
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#46
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Ok good, going over it once is plenty, after time, u will get better.
__________________
Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
#47
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What color u thinking for the yerf? What kind of paint ?
__________________
Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
#48
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I've got massive respect for pro welders. It's so much harder than it looks. Burn through, spatter, rough lumps, it's all such a pain. I'm confident that I'll get better, but man it's going take a bit.
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#49
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Quote:
As far as paint goes, I don't know yet. I'm thinking that I'll use the Rustoleum Hammer spray cans. I like the look, but is it tough enough? Add a few coats of clear and I'd think so. The bottom of the body is going to be black truck bed liner paint. I like the friction texture, and it's pretty tough stuff. I'm thinking about doing a back/gray sort of theme. I can't make up my mind. I've been looking at pictures of buggies on-line for a week. They all look good. |
#50
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Ive used that hammerhead rustoleum paint. I also tried spraying clear on top of it. My personal experience with it is that it hides alot of imperfections which is nice. The hammerhead look i think is a cool design. For durability i wouldnt even rate it good. I love color choices of spray paint, but me personally, if you want durability rattle can is not the answer. Some guys dont mind touching up paint, but if you are trail riding i would recommend something more durable, but hey thats just me. Bedliner for the flooring is a great idea.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
#51
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What if I painted the entire buggy with the bed liner?
I don't have (easy) access to a proper powder coating or spray booth. I don't want the finish to be rubbish, but I'd also rather spend that money on performance bits. I agree about rattle cans, but if there was one (or brand) that you would try? |
#52
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Yes, I agree with that. I'm really touching up paint all the time, just from chipping paint by sand and rocks. Front fenders with flaps did help. Im steal doing modes, so not bad thing, since re painting the area worked on.
I lightly sanded the powder coated paint, then paint over top. Spray paint stuck really well, plus little extra protection. All the black color on my buggy, is epoxy. And it sticks and stays pretty good. Simular to the bed lining paint. However, (does not apply well over fresh paint). It cracks if not clean well, or have some other paint under it. And don't put clear coat over epoxy. Same will happen. I clear coat over the blue, and red. It does help keep that wet shine that looks good. |
#53
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Right now the buggy is 100% primer, after being wire-brushed, so I feel like paint adhesion will be good.
Isn't there an epoxy-based spray paint? I know Rustoleum has their appliance line, but it's only available in a few colors. I think they also have automotive paint as well. |
#54
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Apw, im actually going to spray my buggy in bedliner, theres a few brands that i have researched. The top 3 seem to be durabak, monstaliner, and u-pol raptor. I just did my very first bedliner job on my new truck because dealers wanted way to much $ to do it. I used u-pol raptor and let me say it came oit awesome, and it was my first time doing. The product has been durable, i love the texture feel, like the look, the kit was a fair price, it came with a spray gun which was nice, and came with the hardner. They also make the u-pol raptor kits with color. Now durabak and monstaliner also make there products in a smooth finish and the textured finish. Just giving you some options. If u want durability the bedliner will hold up and u want have to worry about scratching and chipping paint every time u ride the buggy. I personally wouldnt be able to stand spending all that time sanding and painting to have to do touch up work every month.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. Last edited by jmansracerocket; 02-20-2017 at 02:18 PM. |
#55
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You guys are too funny....
Do you drive around the mud puddles or through them?
__________________
My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top.......... |
#56
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Ha! I hear you. I admit it sounds like a dumb thing to get hung up on. Trust me, I plan on using this machine to it's full capacity. But I also want something that looks sharp and cleans up nice.
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#57
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I want to go threw them, without losing paint in the process. I wouldnt be able to take the fact of riding all day, and looking over the buggy and seeing chips, and peeling paint because i just used a rattle can on a buggy. Factory they come powder coated.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. Last edited by jmansracerocket; 02-20-2017 at 08:41 PM. |
#58
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I was just bustin' your guys chops. They're your buggies, do as you wish.
Mine is scratched, dented, dinged, and road-rashed. I'm not afraid to go charging through anything with it. Each scar has a story behind it. Plus, it's more fun running people with a "clunker". You're not expected to win, but if you do.... HA ha!!! Now i do have some nice stuff, but my off road vehicles aren't them.
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top.......... |
#59
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
#60
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Look into implement paint. You can buy by the gallon, pint or spray can. I find it to be more durable than Rustoleum. Implement dealers, Tractor Supply or Orscheln would be a good place to find it I would think. It's priced about the same.
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#61
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Making some big progress. There's now two carts, both completely dismantled, paint ground off, primed and first coat of paint is on. I'll focus on the Yerf Dog updates when posting on this thread.
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#62
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Wow, what a build APW. Nicely done. Mind if I send my kart your way? I have included 2 pictures of my current situation. I am looking to beef up my A-arms and maybe go with heims that I've seen others post about. I was curious what you did and what you or anyone recommends for balljoint/heim build?
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#63
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I just went with The BD spindles and upper and lower arms, also Ball joints. They beefed up pretty good. And can say they do back their stuff up, when they say life time warranty. Bend a spindle. Sent them a pic. They had a new in the mail the next day.
I've heard the Heim's are pretty good. But looks like all your stuff is still stock in the front end. So might just do it all at once if you can. Every time you need to change one item out, pretty much need to tear it all apart. |
#64
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Thank you tkeagle. Yes, it is all stock. Spindles may have been upgraded. They look pretty beefy.
Not to be nosy, do you know how much I may have to spend in order to do the upgrade you mentioned? And do you recommend a certain site to get them? Thanks |
#65
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Well if talking about front arms, spindles, ball joints, tie rods. Heavy duty. Around $300.0 for all. Might sound like a bit. But pretty much replacing the entire front end.
And if you keeping the YD, for any extended time. You will need it all replaced with some better stuff. I got all of my stuff from buggy depot website. |
#66
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I've had a little bit of an injury, specifically putting a jigsaw through my hand, so I've been off the project for a bit. But it's just about healed, so work has continued!
It's been a pretty crazy series of events thus far. I've had some issues getting hardware. Before I sound like I'm bitching, I just want to say that the people at Buggy Depot have been super nice. But, I can't say it's been the best experience thus far. And I've certainly spent a lot... First, I wanted to order their beefed up a-arms, paired with their HD ball joints and spindles. The problem was, they didn't have any a-arms in stock. So I ordered brand new a-arms from BMI, with the intention of sending them to BD for their reinforcement service. I wanted to be certain all the parts worked as intended. If you look at the BD website, it says that if you order the a-arm reinforcement service you will receive an email with your receipt detailing where to send your a-arms. Well, I ordered the service and never received an email. I waited for about a week days, and finally emailed them. No response. I called and asked for the address, explaining the issue with the order process. Took longer than I hoped, but I finally sent in my a-arms. Nearly three weeks go by. Nothing. No confirmation of receiving them, nothing. Finally I emailed them, asking for an update. A few days later I got a very apologetic email, telling me they would do the work and send out my a-arms that day. Great. Well, after about a week I received the a-arms. Here's the thing, they weren't the a-arms I sent. They sent me a set of their HD a-arms. These were the ones I wanted in the beginning. Normally I would be ok with that, but I've built an entire new front end - using the 5/8 inch bolt size, not the 1/2 inch. I sent them a set of 5/8 a-arms, and got back a set of 1/2inch HD a-arms. At this point, I couldn't bare contacting them and explaining the situation and waiting for the 5/8 ones, so I had to cut shims from 1/2 -> 5/8 pipe so the bolts fit both my bulkhead (5/8) and the BD a-arms (1/2). Doing this is how I cut my hand. I had the pipe clamped, but the saw bound up and jumped. It came back down into my hand, sending me to the ER. Ok if this was the only snafu I'd be ok. But no. I also ordered the BD stage three rear shocks back in January. They were out of stock, but I was told they were coming in two weeks. A month later, I emailed and asked for a status. They told me a week or so. A month later, still nothing. I emailed again. Was told two weeks. Finally when I just about gave up, they came. It gets so much better. I also ordered the performance front wheel upgrade back in Jan. This is the one with the big wheels and ATV hubs. The hubs never came. I called. They told me they had been sent, but would come in a different package. A month later, still nothing. I called again. "Oh, they are in the wrong warehouse. I'll get them out today". Almost a month later, and finally at my wits end, I emailed asking for a status on all this stuff. I got this very polite email explaining that they were doing all the shipping that day. Finally they came. Oh, I'm not done yet. I also ordered the stage three front end suspension upgrade. Because of all the waiting for the a-arms and hubs, I only recently dug into my suspension upgrade package. I can believe it, but they didn't include the tie-rod extensions. Ugh. I didn't even bother emailing them at this point. I just ordered a set and I'll suck up the cost. All the while, I've ordered a bunch of stuff from BMI. It's all come quickly, and completely. The people at BD have been super nice, but I can't say I'm going to order much more. It's a bummer to, they have a decent catalog. |
#67
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#68
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I cant say I cant disagree with you. If anything is on back order, don't expect to get them within a few weeks. And if you make an order, and you don't get shipping info back from them within 3 days. Email them, and call them right afterwards. They are very low staffed. And think since they jumped into the scooter aspect, they getting more then they can handle. No excuses. But noticed their customer service has went down, since they got into that.
Looking nice btw. Wish had a good shop to work on my stuff. Garage with no lights is a pain. Kids are my portable lights. Putting some front breaks on? why you have the tubing going alone your A arm? Still need to re enforce my bulk head. Not in the mood to tear down the entire front end to do so. But might as well, before I start painting. "What size bolts and Nuts you use for the 4 major bolts for the bulk head? I got 2 difference sizes on mine. And what length did you use? I know they long, but what do I need after adding a 1/4 plate on each side of bulk head? Think going to half to order on line, cant find anything long enough around town. |
#69
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thank you for putting this out there. i'm also having issues with BD. I will be giving them a call tomorrow. I've made two orders with them so far, one was about two weeks ago and most of it showed up quick. the heavy duty hubs were supposed to shipped two day's later, well still not here. second order was a week ago, it's not here yet and no shipping information. both orders were at least $400 each, I have another order ready to place that's close to $500 but seriously doubting i'll be placing it with them. i'll see how they handle it tomorrow if they get anymore business from me.
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#70
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Buggy update - Washed, masked and put a first coat of paint on the seats! Also stripped and primed the bigger wheels. Getting there!
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#71
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I had painted the seats at one time but because paint doesn't adhere to plastic very well and the seats are Simi- flexible , the paint quickly cracked and flaked off. Power washing did the paint job in. I use these seat covers,http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...70281/10002/-1
These covers have a small amount of padding which is nice. I cut pieces of 1/2" and 3/4 thick high density close cell foam then glued it to the high contact areas of the seat, under the butt bone, base of the spine etc., all those hard pressure points on my bod. By shaping the foam you can create a really decent form fitting seat .then slip the cover on. It made for a very comfortable seat for what it is. |
#72
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Yeah, I was concerned about that. I scuffed up the surface in hopes of helping it stick. If it comes off though, those seat covers look pretty nice.
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#73
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I know I'm a little late to the party here...
Quote:
Project is looking good there, btw. I want to post a few pics of mine but it looks like Photo Bucket is the only way and that's such a pain...grin... |
#74
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My granddaughter and I have had great fun building and customizing our little buggy. My back yard is thousands of square miles of Nevada desert and we enjoy taking it out there and having fun with it. It would be hard to recall all of the improvements we have made - heavy duty front spindles, new carb and intake, eliminated the bulky airbox and replaced with a more compact cold-air intake, new foam Yerf rail padding, hi-intensity cree LED lighting, new rack and pinion dust boots, new wiring and split wire looms, heavier duty battery, mounted tool case, and a custom 1977 Firebird Trans Am steering wheel cap...grin...I know I am forgetting a few things. We painted the wheels and some of the cross members also.
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#75
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#76
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I bought this thing for $200 and it was a driver. I have since put about $200 in it. Best damn $400 fun I've bought in awhile. And to add to it is the fact that my 10 year old granddaughter has been right there beside me helping with the rebuild. Turning wrenches, replacing parts, etc. That part is priceless.
<P> |
#77
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I feel like it's been a month since I've worked on it, but tonight I managed to put the wheels on enough to see what it's going to roughly look like. I have to admit, I'm pretty happy. What an amazing transformation this thing will have undergone when I'm done. From old rusty buggy, to sleek heavy-duty racing machine!
I've welded up the frame with tons of front-end reinforcement, added stage-three suspension from Buggy Depot, enhanced the steering, bearings, and just about everything else from the ground up. I'm almost at the point where I need to figure out what I'm going to do about the engine. I deliberately waited until this point before even really thinking about it. I figured if it came out nice, I'd be more willing to really invest into a bigger power-plant. Looks like that's the case. Muhuahahahaha..... |
#78
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Nice work. We lost a front bearing this past weekend. Leave it to a "USA MADE" manufacturer to use cheap Chinese bearings...grin... There are two on each side up front and one disintegrated on the driver's side. I'm going to go ahead and replace all of them front and rear, with quality German bearings. It's a good thing I sell bearings for a living - the entire cost for all eight bearings might run me $32 bucks.
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#79
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Hey guys new to group and my first go kart. I bought a yerf dog 3206 out of a yard sale. The steering column and rack n pinion appear to be set where they are suppose to be; the issue I am running into is on my u-joint. It measure out 14" from end to end, but when i go to attach it i am roughly 4" short. Now i am not sure if this item is suppose to extend, mine appears to be seized up or heavily jam in its "contracted" position. Any suggestions?
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#80
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Looking good. Ya, it's amazing the transformation it can make, with some paint, some tires and rims, and a lift. It's no longer a go-kart. It's a BUGGY!!
After about a month working on mine, wife finally came down to come take a look at it. She swore I bought a new buggy. That wasn't the same one we bought. LOL, needless to say, she was impressed. Got seat belts yet? Don't forget them, and get them installed before you take a test run. Trust me on that, With the new lift, and center of gravity it will have now, much, much easier to roll. I learned that the hard way. . |
#81
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Coming along nicely.
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2010 Carter Interceptor GTR 300 2010 Hammerhead 250 SS 2015 Kandi 49FM5 110cc 2015 Hammerhead GTS 250-SOLD 2008 Kazuma Coyote 150-SOLD |
#82
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I will never discourage safety equipment but I can say that with my stock Dog, and even "ripping" across the desert at 29 MPH, I have never felt the need for seat belts. Having said that, if you change stuff up like tkeagle mentioned, taller tires (center of gravity), etc then yeah you gotta pay attention to seat belts.
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#83
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I have been welding a l o n g time and still learning!! And wow What a beautiful job your doing, I wish I had your talent.
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Retired guy Central Iowa. Lots and lots of hobby projects. Master Electrician, HVAC/R Union Shop, Home Machine shop. |
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